Monday
Not today, it wasn’t. The day was as dreary as expected although the sun tried to come out late at around 7:30 PM. Sunset isn’t until 9:15 PM. We had a restful do-nothing day with lunch and dinner at home. By the way, this is the 423rd post on this blog. There have been over 1,100 comments. That doesn’t include stats from the old (pre-2013) blog which can still be accessed via a link on the title page of this blog.
Tuesday
When we arose the sun was out. The sun rises at 5:50 AM. We decided to take a ride to Lispole (Lios Póil in Irish), just 8 km east of Dingle. Then it was another couple of kilometers down a narrow road to the site of the ruins of Minard Castle. It is badly damaged, the most damage resulting from a siege by Oliver Cromwell’s troops in 1650 and subsequently the weather. It sits above an impressive storm bay where the rocks are rounded by rolling around the ocean floor before eventually being deposited on the beach by storms. This natural storm beach is considered one of the finest in Ireland. Elaine chatted with a group of young American women who were doing a hike of the Dingle Way (well, part of it anyway – the whole Dingle Way is 179 km long and takes a fit adult 8-9 days to complete).
A short walk takes one to the visually unimpressive St John’s Well (Tobar Eoin) dedicated to St. John the Baptist. A nearby prayer tree was very bare – previously it has been covered with ribbons and mementos, perhaps because on our last visit it was in the fall near the end of the tourist season and not after a two-year pandemic. Here’s your history lesson for the day (easily scrolled past):
A particular association of the well which has contributed to the long survival of religious observance here is the legend connecting St John the Baptist with the Corca Dhuibhne ( Dingle Peninsula) people. This legend asserted that John the Baptist was beheaded by an Irish druid called Mogh Roith (the Slave of the Wheel) from Valentia Island on the other side of Dingle Bay, and prophesied that the Irish people – and especially the Corca Dhuibhne – would be called upon to pay for the crime at a date when certain time divisions coincided. In 1096 it was thought that the appointed time was approaching, and Ireland was seized with a panic, similar to the millenialist hysteria that had gripped many in Europe a century before. Rigorous fasting and prayer were undertaken, and it is probably from this date that the well derived its importance, along with many others dedicated to St John the Baptist.
A short walk from St John’s Well is a small boat landing spot on Dingle Bay with a view back to Minard Castle. I like the silhouette picture of me on the dock with Dingle Bay all around me and the clouds hanging over the Ring of Kerry across the bay. Good shot, Elaine.
On the way back to the main road we stopped briefly at the Lispole cemetery. Those buried here have a nice view (if only they could see it).
Then it was back to Dingle. We headed off to see the ruins of a medieval church, but it clouded over and started raining, so we went home to lunch instead.
Dinner tonight was a third visit to Out of the Blue. Don’t go here if you don’t like seafood – there is only seafood on the menu (except for dessert). Don’t go if you want French fries – they don’t do them. It’s hard for me not to get oysters wherever we go. Oysters it was then For my main, I had Grilled Sea Bass and John Dory followed by Lemon and Vanilla Posset. (Posset, you ask? Google it.). Elaine chose Salmon and Smoked Salmon for her starter and then Skewered Monkfish followed by a Rhubarb Tart with Whipped Cream. We met a couple from Philadelphia seated at the next table. Then it was off to the Dingle Pub to say goodbye to Richie O’Brien, the singer from Dreams of Freedom. We won’t see him again until next trip. The pub was packed, and we ran into and chatted with the women we met at Minard Castle. We didn’t stay long.
The forecast for the next few days, our last in Dingle, looks promising. Slán go fóill
Sounds like a lovely day. Take some pictures of the inside of the house you are staying in. I only saw the picture of the fireplace. Do you make a reservation for your next visit before you leave?
Will try to remember to get some interior pictures. Yes, we’ll probably reserve for next year. Grainne has four properties and we’ve stayed at two. Trying to decide which one to go with in 2023.
The Minard Castle has certainly seen a few good storms in it’s day. I’d never heard of a storm beach before, but I can see the reason for it now. Glad you didn’t need to use that life preserver! And the story of St John’s Well is interesting. I imagine if you’d spotted the golden trout, you would have mentioned it.
The food at Out of the Blue (love that name) looks delicious as always. The posset you ordered sounds a lot better than the original made with curdled milk and ale. Yes, I googled it. I’d go with Elaine’s choice of the rhubarb tart with whipped cream.
It’s sad that you’re starting to say your goodbye’s to Dingle, but your final week sounds very interesting. Can’t wait to hear about the Geoghegan relatives.
Which has been your favorite Dingle house, over the years?
And that picture Elaine took pretty good indeed, wondering if she was waiting for the tide to roll in (get your ankles wet?). Is that a boat slip, looks like one.
Yes, a boat slip. No, no wet ankles.
You do continue to find beautiful places to explore. I am surprised “no wet feet” Joe. Wonderful pics as usual. Fun meeting the girls from the USA and then seeing them in the pub. Anxious for the “Geoghegan” reunion pics and news. Thanks for the postcard Elaine.