Monday – A Day at Studland Bay

When we arrived in Swanage on Friday, we came over the Studland/Sandbanks chain ferry and drove the main road through Studland Bay.  Studland Bay is a glorious slice of natural coastline in Purbeck featuring a four-mile stretch of golden, sandy beach, with gently bathing waters and views of Old Harry Rocks and the Isle of Wight.  It’s ideal for water sports and includes the most popular naturist beach (think nudist) in Britain. The heathland behind the beach is a haven for native birds, reptiles, and deer.  We decided to spend the day there.

We drove the short twenty minute drive to the NT parking lot at Shell Bay just where the chain ferry goes across to Poole.  We walked for about a mile along the sandy North Beach watching numerous boats going by us – a ferry, three high speed police boats, a British Navy destroyer (?), and a tall ship.  This was the nudist beach and indeed we saw one guy taking advantage of a clothes-free walk on the beach.  (I resisted taking his picture.)  We demurred from stripping ourselves.  We also saw a bird catch a garfish.  He tried to swallow it whole, almost did it, regurgitated it, tried again, regurgitated again, and finally flew off with his catch to seek other eating options.

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Then we drove up the road a bit and stopped at Knoll Beach where the National Trust maintains an information center, shop, and restaurant.  I had a diet Coke, and we chatted with a local British couple who said this was their favorite beach in the UK.  There are all kinds of watercraft to rent and the beach is lined with beach huts that people own or rent.  You can’t overnight in them, but you can store all your beach gear for a day on the dunes.

Further up Studland Bay we stopped at Middle Beach where we found the perfect spot for a picnic lunch.  Elaine had prepared ham sandwiches which we enjoyed with Kettle Chips and drinks overlooking the picturesque beach.

All along the beaches you can see the famous chalk of the Old Harry Rocks off in the distance.  As we came to the final beach, South Beach, we were at the kickoff of the one-mile walk to Old Harry Rocks.  There was no daunting hill on the walk, so we set off for a close up look.  The path was busy with walkers coming and going.  You can’t see Old Harry Rocks as you approach, but suddenly they are there.  They look pretty spectacular up close and personal.  After numerous photo ops, we headed back to our car.  Actually, it is just three miles from Old Harry Rocks back into Swanage proper, and many people do that walk.  Maybe next trip.

Back at the NT parking lot there is a convenient pub, the Bankes Arms, located right next door.  We sat outside whilst Elaine enjoyed a glass of still cider and I had a nice cold Carlings lager.  I decided against a hand drawn ale or beer since those are served at room temperature.  Lager is most always cold, and we were warm after our two mile hike, all done in bright sunshine.  (Temperatures were right around 60 degrees).

 

Then it was back to Rowena Cottage for the obligatory nap before cocktails.  Drinks were on the sunny patio before we drove off into town for our reservation at Harlees Fish for dinner.  It had been recommended by a local on Swanage Pier.  Recommendations don’t always work out!  Harlees downstairs is a basic fish and chips takeaway operation.  Upstairs is their restaurant.  It’s pretty basic.  Red wine choices were merlot, cab, or shiraz.  We chose shiraz which turned out to be Yellowtail, not our favorite.  We shared very nice squid rings for an appetizer.  We both choose tuna as our main, and it was pretty bad – thin, overcooked, and tasteless.  Even the chips (fries) were average at best.  The best part of dinner was the price – it was cheap.  Still hungry, we took a short walk, found an open ice cream stand and both enjoyed a double dip cone.  At least dessert was good!  And home to bed!