So Tuesday was overcast with high clouds but dry and warmer.  We had a single destination for the day – Kedleston Hall – for a walk and a visit to the house.  It’s only a 30 minute drive away.  The grounds open at 10:30, the house opens at 12:00.  So we had a leisurely morning at home before setting off at about 10:00 am.  Sometimes you think “what, another country house to visit, maybe we should just skip it”.  But every one is different and magnificent in its own way.

Kedleston Hall, administered by the ever present National Trust, is another English country house and the seat of the Curzon family.  The current house was commissioned in 1759 by Sir Nathaniel Curzon (Baron Scarsdale).  He put a relatively unknown architect, Robert Adams, in charge of the construction.  Adams eventually became one of the most successful and fashionable architects in England and created the “Adam Style“.  He designed the outside, inside , and the extensive grounds and gardens which are still referred to as the Pleasure Grounds.  The gardens and grounds today, over two hundred years later, remain mostly unaltered.  Interestingly, parts of the estate are designated as a Site of Special Scientific Interest, primarily because of the “rich and diverse deadwood invertebrate fauna inhabiting its ancient trees”.  Ah, OK.  Also in the garden is a hermitage – originally  a hermitage was a small hut lived in by a religious man or woman. It was usually built away from other people’s houses. But in the 18th century, a hermitage was one of many small buildings landowners added to their parks and gardens.  Like the other garden buildings, a hermitage was used for entertainment or as space to get away from society. A landowner might also advertise for a hermit to come and live in the hermitage as an attraction for visitors.

As usual, click on pictures for an enlarged version in a separate window or tab

Kedleston Hall played an interesting role in WWII.  In 1939, it was offered by Richard Curzon, 2nd Viscount Scarsdale, for use by the UK War Department.  Kedleston Hall provided various facilities during the period 1939–45 including its use as a mustering point and army training camp. It also formed one of the Y-stations used to gather Signals Intelligence via radio transmissions which, if encrypted, were subsequently passed to the codebreakers at Bletchley Park for decryption.  There’s your WWII history lesson for the day.

Before touring the impressive house, we did a 3.2 mile walk around the Pleasure Grounds.  The walk was easy and nice and level – no climbing!  We stopped by the artificial lake near the end of the walk to eat the picnic lunch we had brought along.  The Pleasure Grounds are a popular picnic spot.

Then we did a self tour of the house, an impressive edifice with a beautiful interior.  Some of the collections inside are quite amazing.  Two highlights come immediately to mind:

• An impressive Tiger rug (that would be (or maybe is) very politically incorrect today, but it is impressive none the less displayed right in front an equally impressive Howdah (elephant saddle).  Not many places to see a tiger rug or an elephant saddle at all, let alone right beside each other.

• The Peacock Gown worn by Lady Mary Curzon (who was from Chicago) was assembled in India from panels of chiffon that had been embroidered and embellished by Delhi and Agra craftsmen using the gold wire weaving method. It was shipped to Paris where the dress was styled with a long train edged with white chiffon roses. The panels were overlapping peacock feathers that each had a blue/green beetle wing at the center. Over time, the metal thread in the dress has tarnished but the beetle wings have not lost their luster.  The ill-fated Lady Curzon (she died at 36) wore the dress to celebrate the 1902 coronation of King Edward VII at the second Delhi Durbar in 1903.  The Delhi Durbar was held to celebrate the succession of an Emperor or Empress of India.  That, of course, would also be the King or Queen of England.

Some pictures from the rest of the impressive Kedleston Hall:

After the house we did a quick visit to the All Saints Church on the grounds (Yes, the same as the church at Sudbury Hall that we saw yesterday.)  Then it was back to Pierre Peugeot for the ride home for a late afternoon at leisure.  Cocktails were outside on the lawn.  Our landlord, Roger, joined us for a glass of wine and invited us to join him and his wife tomorrow night for cocktails.

Dinner tonight was at the Bowling Green Inn in Ashbourne.  Elaine picked off TripAdvisor, a site we use often and contribute reviews to regularly.  It is noted for its steaks, something I usually avoid in the UK because they don’t live up to US standards.  It was very good.  I started with sweet and spicy chorizo while Elaine enjoyed smoked salmon with asparagus.  I went with a steak – a 9 oz. fillet, ordered medium rare, and it was very good and cooked perfectly.  Elaine had sea bass with more asparagus.  The portions were large and we skipped dessert.  Instead we had dark chocolate coated ginger cookies at home before calling it a day.

 

Dull dreary day with off-and-on rain (what you expect in England).  The day started off badly as we drove into Ashbourne to buy game pies from the butcher shop, but the butcher was closed for the bank holiday.  The Waitrose super market was open and we bought a few supplies.  Then we headed to Sudbury to visit Sudbury Hall.

Sudbury Hall is an old country house, the ancestral home of the Vernon family, which is administered by the National Trust and currently serves as the home of the National Museum of Childhood.  A woman named Betty Cadbury, now deceased, had this huge collection of childhood memorabilia which her estate has loaned indefinitely to the National Trust.  They display it in this museum.  Full of families with little kids who seemingly love the place, it brought back childhood memories.  It is quite interesting and brought back lots of memories.

The Sudbury All Saints Church is next door, and we stopped in for a visit. It is a surprisingly interesting place, and we enjoyed a good look around.  Some of the Vernon Family of Sudbury Hall are entombed here.  After our visit we wandered a short way down the road for lunch at the Vernon Arms.  It was built as a coaching inn in 1671.  A BLT for Elaine and Steak and Ale Pie with chips for me.  Very good.  I had a traditional English pale ale, Gold EPA from Marston Breweries.  It was good, but almost all non-lager beer and ale is served at room temperature in England.  If you want a cold one, always order a lager.

One the way home we stopped at the closest pub to our cottage, the Dog and Partridge Country Inn, to check it out for dinner tomorrow night.  We had a beer and decided after checking the menu that we would give it a miss.  Once home Elaine did her TripAdvisor thing and picked out another place for tomorrow night.  I called and made a reservation.  (Once in England I swapped out my US phone sim card for a UK sim that I have had for several years.  I topped it up before leaving home and it works great for the occasional phone call we need to make.)

Dinner at home was lamb meatballs with peppers and onions and a side salad.  The wine was a pinot noir.  A little TV and then off to bed.

Mostly cloudy day today with some rain but generally pleasant.  This morning we drove the nearby tiny town of Tissington, a quintessential little English village.  It, like other towns in England, is celebrating their annual Well Dressing Festival this week (Good timing!).  Well dressing (also once known as well flowering) is a summer custom practiced in rural England in which wells, springs or other water sources are decorated with designs created from flower petals. The custom is most closely associated with the Peak District of Derbyshire and Staffordshire.  (I’ve been saying we are in Derbyshire.  All the sights we have seen are indeed in Derbyshire, but Dovedale Lodge is in fact over the border in Staffordshire). We parked just outside the village, and walked through town viewing the six well dressings located here.  Tissington is the most famous of all the well dressing villages in England.

Click on Pictures to Enlarge (Lots today!)

From here we drove back up toward Bakewell to visit the ancestral and current home of the Duke of Devonshire.  Chatsworth House is located on a huge estate, and it was very busy on this long weekend Sunday.  We went through the magnificent house, and then ventured into the lovely gardens.  Parts of the house are currently displaying an exhibition of British style.  The gardens were huge and we did only a short walkabout there.  You could easily spend a whole day here, and families had spread blankets on the vast lawns and set up elaborate picnics.  Apparently the current Duke’s mother, the Duchess, used to come down and greet visitors who came to view the house every day until she died at age 84 a few years back.  The current Duke, the 12th, took over on the death of his father in 2009.  His grandfather, the 10th Duke, had an older brother who was married to Kathleen Kennedy, sister of John F. Kennedy.  He was killed in WWII and never assumed dukedom.

After an abbreviated visit in the gardens, we headed back home to change for Sunday afternoon brunch at the Duncombe Arms, a short drive from Dovedale Lodge in little Ellastone.  Service wasn’t great, but the food was good.  As our only meal of the day, I started with a delicious chicken live pate while Elaine had citrus salmon with avocado.  I had traditional English roast beef with Yorkshire Pudding and potatoes while Elaine enjoyed chicken and mushroom pie.  For dessert Elaine had sticky toffee pudding with ginger ice cream while I indulged in a strawberry trifle.  All yummy with a nice bottle of wine (French Bordeaux).

Fully sated, we headed home for a rest.  We had cocktails on the lawn again as a hot air balloon floated by, and we had a nice chat with our landlord, Roger.  This tiny village of Blore has only four resident families. (Well, five if you count us!)  Then it was early to bed after a busy day.

 

The forecast wasn’t good for our first full day in Derbyshire with rain and thunder showers predicted throughout the day.  Nonetheless, we set off from Dovedale Lodge for nearby Ashbourne to check out the town.  It’s comfortably small but bustling and full of shops.  It was market day, so it was quite busy.  Today is also the start of a long weekend as Monday is a bank holiday in the UK as well as the beginning of mid-term school break week.

We wandered around for awhile before visiting St Oswald’s Church.  St Oswald’s is the parish church for Ashbourne and is one of the most beautiful and most visited parish churches in England.  It is named after Oswald of Northumbria and was dedicated in 1241.  It is a very nice church with lots of stained glass.  We also stopped in at the associated St John’s Church on the opposite side of downtown.  Both are Anglican.

We found a great bakery in Ashbourne and bought a loaf of country sourdough bread that turned out to be amazingly good.  You don’t get bread in the UK like you do in France, but this loaf was damn close.  We also discovered a butcher shop where we will return to buy game pies for dinner one night this week.

As we walked around, it was sprinkling off and on with the sun sometimes sneaking out.  No rainbows though.  Back to the car we decided to drive the 15 miles to visit Haddon Hall.  I was afraid it would be teaming with Brits out on the long weekend.  And the gardens, supposedly beautiful, wouldn’t be very enjoyable in the rain.  But luck was on our side.  It wasn’t crowded at all, the clouds cleared, and we visited under bright blue skies.

Haddon Hall, famous for its tapestries and gardens, is often described as the most perfect house to survive from the middle ages. Set in the heart of the beautiful Peak District National Park, parts of the house date from the 12th Century, sitting like a jewel in its Elizabethan terraced gardens, and overlooking the River Wye.  Film-makers flock to Haddon Hall to use it as a location. The house and grounds have played host to no less than three versions of Jane Eyre. Screen credits also include Elizabeth, Pride & Prejudice, The Other Boleyn Girl and The Princess Bride, the cult classic movie in which Haddon Hall becomes Prince Humperdinck’s Castle and village. Haddon Hall is recognized as one of the most romantic houses in Britain.  The gardens were lovely, full of blooming flowers that sparkled under the beautiful sunny skies.  It lived up to its reputation.

We then stopped in nearby Bakewell for a walkabout.  It is known as the ancient capital of the Peak District.  The River Wye meanders gently through the center of this beautiful old market town.  It is famous for its Bakewell Puddings.  Bakewell grew up around a cluster of thermal springs and wells that attracted Iron Age settlers.  The town has a long and fascinating history; mentioned in the Domes Day Book of 1085,`Badequella’ meaning Bath-well.  Bakewell was hopping as it was the day for the monthly farmer’s market, second biggest in the UK.

Then we headed home to Dovedale Lodge for a rest and for cocktails.  We waited too long to make reservations for dinner in White’s Restaurant in Ashbourne, so we made a reservation there for Thursday night, our last night in the area.  For dinner we ate the leftover steak burgers and potatoes served with that delicious bread we bought.  The clouds were back and it rained periodically with the occasional thunder claps.

And tomorrow is another day.

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We loved our stay in Swanage.  Rowena Cottage was perfect.  The restaurants, save one, were excellent.  The scenery was outstanding.  And the weather was as good as it gets.  But on Friday morning at 9:00 we packed up Pierre Peugeot and set out for Derbyshire, a four-and-a-half hour drive pretty much due north.  The drive, mostly on British motorways including the infamous M1 and a short stretch on England’s only toll road, the M6 near Birmingham, was uneventful although stressful (because the traffic in England is always heavy on the motorways).

We arrived in Ashbourne, the closest market town to our next cottage in England’s Peak District, at about 1:30.  It’s a very pretty town.  We quickly found our way to Sainsbury’s, a supermarket chain, to stock up for the week.  We bought a week’s allotment of wine, some makings for sandwiches for picnics, water, bread, Rose’s lime juice (an essential), and other odds and ends.

Then we drove the additional 8 or 9 miles to the small village of Blore and to Dovedale Lodge, our home for the next seven nights.  We arrived around 3:00.  It’s a lovely cottage with all the amenities including washer, dryer, dishwasher, microwave, fridge, etc.  We rented this one from Rural Retreats, the same broker that we used for Rowena Cottage.  We unloaded the car and set up shop.  The WiFi works just fine.

The weather was perfect once again for the drive, and the temperatures reached the low 80’s, unheard of for England in May.  We took a very short walk to and around Blore’s St. Bartholomew’s Church and Graveyard.  I changed into shorts and we enjoyed cocktails in front of the cottage on the peaceful lawn.  Dovedale Lodge is in a remote area, but there are two other homes nearby.  We waved to one of our neighbors as they drove off into town.

For dinner was had steak-burgers with potatoes and a salad and a nice bottle of Chilean pinot noir.  Then early to bed.  No plans yet for tomorrow but there are rain showers predicted for late morning.  In fact, it looks like a pretty cloudy week.  No worries, we will soldier on.

Click to Enlarge Pictures

Hard to believe we arrived here in Dorset last Friday night and we are about to spend our last night before heading north to Derbyshire.  It was a great week, and today was like yesterday weather-wise – bright sun and warm (for Britain) temps near the 70’s.

Wanting a relatively quiet day, we ventured into Swanage and took the steam train of Swanage Railways to Corfe Castle on a better weather day than our last visit last.  The ride is just 25 minutes through pleasing countryside.  Having already done Corfe Castle (which was built by William the Conqueror, we visited the pleasant but underwhelming Miniature Village and then settled in at the National Trust Tea Room for a cream tea:  a cup of tea with a scone and clotted cream and jam.  Clotted cream should be illegal!  A final stop in small unpretentious Corfe Castle Town Trust Museum and it was time to get back to the train station.

After the train ride back to Swanage, we hopped in the car and drove back once again to Shell Bay for lunch at the Shell Bay Café.  This was our splurge meal in Dorset.  For a starter Elaine had Thai Fish Cakes with Chili and I had Mackerel and Trout Pate with Garlic Butter.  OMG!  Elaine had a delicious cod filet for her main while I had a delectable whole Plaice with asparagus and potatoes.  The bones were a pain, but the fish tasted wonderful.  We skipped dessert.

Then we stopped at the Coop for a bottle of wine for dinner and some cold cuts for the picnic lunch for tomorrow’s ride to Derbyshire.  Cocktails were on the patio in bright sunshine – windy on one side of the cottage but calm on the other.  Dinner was at home: scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and strawberries with a New Zealand Pinot Noir.

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The Swanage Railway Steam Train

 

Wednesday turned out to be a glorious day weather-wise – bright sunshine and temperatures in the mid 60’s but it felt like the 70’s.  We decided to have a casual day of sightseeing on Brownsea Island (which is administered by the ubiquitous National Trust).

We drove the 10 miles to the Sandbanks chain ferry and parked in the NT lot at Shell Bay.  From there we boarded the 5-minute chain ferry to get to the Poole side of the bay.  Then it was onto another 10-minute ferry (passengers only) to Brownsea Island (also called Branksea).  First order of business after landing was to find a spot for our picnic lunch.  Mission quickly accomplished.

A little history of Brownsea Island (interesting, but skip if you find this TMI – too much information).  Dating back to the Tudor period, Brownsea was once a thriving community with homes, shops, a pub, a school, a church, etc. 1.5 miles long and 0.75 miles wide, it was purchased in 1927 (for £125,000) by Mary Bonham Christie to be a nature preserve for birds and animals.  Over a period of six years she essentially kicked all the residents off the island, after which only invited guest were allowed to land.  In 1934 a fire destroyed 2/3rds of the island.  Traumatized by the event, Bonham-Christie banned all public access to the island for the rest of her life.  Mrs. Christie lived alone in the island’s modest castle.  The only other residents were a housekeeper, a boatman, and a caretaker.  As she grew old, she refused to go to a nursing home on the mainland.  The Demon of Brownsea, as she was known, died in 1961 on the mainland the same day she was transported off Brownsea in extremely poor health.  She was 96 years old.  Her son couldn’t afford the death duties due on his inheritance, and a group of environmentalists raised the necessary funds to bequeath the island to the care of the National Trust.

Today the island is totally owned by the National Trust save for the church which is still owned by the Church of England.  The NT considered the castle to be of “little antiquity or architectural interest” and leased it to the John Lewis Partnership to be converted to a five-star hotel for use of its employees.  So if you work for the Partnership which owns Waitrose, the upscale British grocery chain, you get to take vacations here for three-star prices.

We enjoyed a long walk about on the island, stopping in to see the church of St Mary the Virgin.  The church has no electricity but is still used for a weekly Sunday service and for weddings.  We got a private organ recital from the NT volunteer on duty.  In walking we saw examples of the island’s population of peacocks and red squirrels.  The squirrels are currently threatened by a form of leprosy.  We also saw a beautiful pheasant.

After our walk, we took the two ferries back to Shell Bay where we stopped at the Shell Bay Café for a well earned drink.  It has a stunning location, and we decided to book a table for lunch on Thursday.  Then it was home to nap and have a cocktail on the patio under still perfect blue skies and warm temperatures.

Dinner was at Swanage’s highly rated Black Swan Pub.  We both enjoyed a delicious Luxury Fish Pie (Salmon, King prawn, hake and skate in a crab and white wine cream sauce, covered with cheesy mash and served with vegetables of the day or a mixed leaf salad).  I had grilled sardines as a starter; Elaine had a stuffed mushroom  We drank a bottle of Pinot Vero from Italy with the meal and skipped desserts.  Instead we drove down the waterfront and enjoyed ice cream cones there.

PICTURES (click to enlarge)

 

Forecast not great today – mostly cloudy but no rain was expected – accurate forecast, it turns out.  We drove an hour west to Weymouth, famous for golden sandy beaches which we did not visit.  Rather we crossed the short bridge onto the Isle of Portland.  The Port of Portland is one of the largest man made harbors in the world.  Stops for the day:

Portland Castle

Portland Castle is not really a castle, but rather an armed fort that was converted to a residence later in its history.  Lots of history here with lots of cannons to fight off the invaders from the south.  Portland is the southernmost point of the eastern UK.  Nice gardens.  Bought some ginger butter at the gift shop.  Elaine loves it (they had samples).  It should be great on toast or crackers.

 

Castletown D-Day Centre

The Castletown D-Day Centre is an immersive visitor attraction telling the story of the embarkation of the US Army 5th Corps and 1st Division for D-Day from a busy wartime dockyard in 1944.  It’s a small venue but very well done, all run by volunteers in costume.  This apparently just opened in 2017.  It was great!

Chesil Beach

We didn’t really stop at Chesil Beach except for a quick view through the fog.  Have you read  On Chesil Beach by Ian McEwan?  I haven’t but Elaine loved the book.  Apparently there is a movie version to be released this year.

Portland Bill Lighthouse

Portland Bill is a working lighthouse (run by Trinity House that also administers our Anvil Point Light) that is also a major visitor attraction.  Lots of bunkers around the area as this the southernmost point of Portland Island.  We did a quick look around.

 

Billy Winter’s Bar & Diner

Billy Winters Bar & Diner is just a shack really, overlooking the beach and harbor.  Scrumptious food!  I had squid and chorizo meatballs in a sweet chili sauce on flatbread.  Beer and wine, of course.  They are normally closed on Tuesday, but they were open today to celebrate the one-day presence of the Disney cruise ship.  It arrived this morning and departs tonight.  It’s the largest cruise ship to ever visit Portland Harbor.

Sand Sculpture Exhibit

Back in Weymouth, we stopped at an amusement center (aquarium, train ride, etc) to visit the Sandworld Sculpture exhibit.  Weymouth annually holds a sand sculpture festival.  The sand here is apparently perfect for creating sculptures.  The ones we viewed were amazing.  Some are painted, some are not.  There is an area where you can create your own sculpture.  We did not.  I expected this to be a waste of an hour but it actually was quite enjoyable.

Then it was home again, stopping on the way to buy some more fresh strawberries from the same girl we bought from on Saturday.  Drinks on the chilly patio; dinner at home (leftover Chicken Rogan Josh – I couldn’t find any Josh Groban music to accompany the Rogan Josh.)

When we arrived in Swanage on Friday, we came over the Studland/Sandbanks chain ferry and drove the main road through Studland Bay.  Studland Bay is a glorious slice of natural coastline in Purbeck featuring a four-mile stretch of golden, sandy beach, with gently bathing waters and views of Old Harry Rocks and the Isle of Wight.  It’s ideal for water sports and includes the most popular naturist beach (think nudist) in Britain. The heathland behind the beach is a haven for native birds, reptiles, and deer.  We decided to spend the day there.

We drove the short twenty minute drive to the NT parking lot at Shell Bay just where the chain ferry goes across to Poole.  We walked for about a mile along the sandy North Beach watching numerous boats going by us – a ferry, three high speed police boats, a British Navy destroyer (?), and a tall ship.  This was the nudist beach and indeed we saw one guy taking advantage of a clothes-free walk on the beach.  (I resisted taking his picture.)  We demurred from stripping ourselves.  We also saw a bird catch a garfish.  He tried to swallow it whole, almost did it, regurgitated it, tried again, regurgitated again, and finally flew off with his catch to seek other eating options.

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Then we drove up the road a bit and stopped at Knoll Beach where the National Trust maintains an information center, shop, and restaurant.  I had a diet Coke, and we chatted with a local British couple who said this was their favorite beach in the UK.  There are all kinds of watercraft to rent and the beach is lined with beach huts that people own or rent.  You can’t overnight in them, but you can store all your beach gear for a day on the dunes.

Further up Studland Bay we stopped at Middle Beach where we found the perfect spot for a picnic lunch.  Elaine had prepared ham sandwiches which we enjoyed with Kettle Chips and drinks overlooking the picturesque beach.

All along the beaches you can see the famous chalk of the Old Harry Rocks off in the distance.  As we came to the final beach, South Beach, we were at the kickoff of the one-mile walk to Old Harry Rocks.  There was no daunting hill on the walk, so we set off for a close up look.  The path was busy with walkers coming and going.  You can’t see Old Harry Rocks as you approach, but suddenly they are there.  They look pretty spectacular up close and personal.  After numerous photo ops, we headed back to our car.  Actually, it is just three miles from Old Harry Rocks back into Swanage proper, and many people do that walk.  Maybe next trip.

Back at the NT parking lot there is a convenient pub, the Bankes Arms, located right next door.  We sat outside whilst Elaine enjoyed a glass of still cider and I had a nice cold Carlings lager.  I decided against a hand drawn ale or beer since those are served at room temperature.  Lager is most always cold, and we were warm after our two mile hike, all done in bright sunshine.  (Temperatures were right around 60 degrees).

 

Then it was back to Rowena Cottage for the obligatory nap before cocktails.  Drinks were on the sunny patio before we drove off into town for our reservation at Harlees Fish for dinner.  It had been recommended by a local on Swanage Pier.  Recommendations don’t always work out!  Harlees downstairs is a basic fish and chips takeaway operation.  Upstairs is their restaurant.  It’s pretty basic.  Red wine choices were merlot, cab, or shiraz.  We chose shiraz which turned out to be Yellowtail, not our favorite.  We shared very nice squid rings for an appetizer.  We both choose tuna as our main, and it was pretty bad – thin, overcooked, and tasteless.  Even the chips (fries) were average at best.  The best part of dinner was the price – it was cheap.  Still hungry, we took a short walk, found an open ice cream stand and both enjoyed a double dip cone.  At least dessert was good!  And home to bed!

 

 

 

Sunday was forecast to be a nice sunny day.  After a nice breakfast (toast, tea, yogurt & fresh strawberries, we decided to spend the day in Swanage town.  We left Rowena Cottage at about 8:30 with our first stop being in Durlston Country Park, just up the narrow winding private road from the lighthouse to proper city streets.

Durlston Country Park is run by the Dorset County Council.  It has a castle, now restored,  that was built by the eminent Victorian, George Burt, and it contains a legacy of fascinating artifacts.  It wasn’t open that early, but our main goal was to see the “Great Globe” constructed of 40 tons of Portland limestone.  It is located outside the castle on the seaside walk.  The globe was constructed in Greenwich (near London) and transported to Swanage by sea. Its surface is carved in detail and lettered to show the continents, oceans and certain more specific areas of the world.

Then we drove into Swanage town and, it being early, procured a prime parking spot for Pierre the Peugeot right along the beach.  We did a walkabout through the beachfront area filled with amusement arcades, fish and chip shops, souvenir stands, ice cream vendors, and deep-sea diving vendors.  It cost £1 each to enter the Swanage Pier for “strolling”.  It cost more if you wanted to fish or dive.  It seems Swanage is a major center for divers.  There are lots of shipwrecks in the area, and they are all popular dives.  We saw hundreds of divers readying their equipment and dressing up in their wet suits.

At 11:00 we decided to embark on a 45 minute boat trip with Marsh’s Boats.  We bought our tickets from Roger who would also be the captain of the small boat leaving at 11:30.  Roger is a character.  He had lots of jokes and a reasonable but not overwhelming knowledge of the area.  There would be no complaint of “too much information”.  He was a lot of fun.  We went round the point, and at the most distant point of the trip we found ourselves directly below Anvil Point Lighthouse and Rowena Cottage.  People were impressed that we were staying there.

Back to shore around 1:00 PM, it was time for lunch.  First we booked a restaurant for Monday night at a recommended spot.  Then we decided on fish and chips (what else?) at the Fish Plaice,  Excellent cod and chips!  Then we did a walkabout through downtown Swanage.  Just before returning to the car, we stopped at Budgen’s to buy the makings for tonight’s dinner at home.  Then home for naps.

I had a camera issue to resolve.  My battery seemed to die much more quickly than usual.  And the supposedly fully charged spare was dead as well.  So today’s pictures were taken with my Moto G4 cell phone.  It has an OK camera, but I prefer to use my Canon G16 camera.  Anyway, it appears that charging the camera batteries with a third-party USB dual charger is resulting in only a trickle charge even when the green light indicates a full charge.  I charged up the batteries with the Canon plug-in charger and I think that has solved the problem.

We had cocktails out on the patio – sunny but chilly.  Dinner was home cooked Chicken Rogan Josh with a nice salad.  The wine was a Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley that we had purchased at Costco the day we arrived.

Pictures (click to enlarge)