Sorry for the blogless day yesterday – Sunday was a day of rest.  We did the less than two hour drive from Cambridge to Windsor in the morning, mostly with Vic’s wipers furiously clearing the rain from the windscreen.  Miraculously, when we parked in Windsor, too early for check in at the B&B, the rain stopped and we even saw peeks of the sun.  Once again we did not get wet as we walked around.  Windsor and its castle were strangely quiet, free of the hordes that usually clog the streets.  Everyone who was anybody (except us) was in London for Trooping the Colour, the Queen’s official birthday celebration.  The monarch’s official birthday is June 12th, thanks to Edward II, who decided that his birthday should be celebrated in nice weather rather the gloom and gray of his November birthday.  That tradition has continued since his time.  Old Elizabeth II is 90 now, the longest serving British monarch EVER, most likely much to the chagrin of Charles, who will become King on her passing.

We had a quiet day and left the camera in the car.  At 3:00 PM we proceeded to 76 Duke Street to check in at the B&B of the same name, owned by Julia, who is now an old friend.  I think this was our fourth stay with her.  She rents to just one visitor per day.  We invited her to dinner with us, as we have in the past, but this time she demurred.  Dinner was at Dhinchak, an Indian restaurant, in downtown Windsor.  The food was as good as ever, and strangely, it was our first Indian food since arriving at Heathrow over a month ago.  In England it seems there is an Indian restaurant, if not two, on every block.

Monday was departure day.  After breakfast with Julia we dropped Vic the Volvo near Heathrow. He and Bailey, our SatNav (GPS) navigator, were troopers during our stay and did themselves proud.  As if to say, “OK, things will be different and back to normal now that you are leaving”, England finally rained on us as we hustled from the car to Terminal Three at Heathrow.  The flight to Boston was smooth as glass.  From Boston we will fly early Tuesday morning back home to Scottsdale, and the trip will be in the history books.

I will be back in late July every other day or so with reports from my solo trip to Saratoga.  And we will have daily reports in September on our return visit to Depoe Bay, Oregon for ten days.  This year instead of three day road trips in each direction, we will be flying to Portland.

Cheers!

It was raining Saturday morning when I got up, but as usual, when it was time to be doing something, the rain stopped.  We had a mixture of clouds and sun for the day.

I’ll be brief today and let the pictures do the talking.  We walked into town through the park and went immediately to the Fitzwilliam Museum.  It is a large and quite fabulous place where you could spend days.  And it is all free.  It has everything: ancient Chinese porcelain, artifacts from old Egypt, and a fabulous collection of painting spanning a myriad of regions and styles.  I always especially enjoy French impressionists, and the Fitzwilliam did not disappoint in that regard.

Pictures from the Fitzwilliam (Click to Enlarge)

Then we visited the University of Cambridge Polar Museum.  UC does lots of research on the North and South Poles.  It was interesting and we found information on Tom Crean, our “friend” from Dingle who made three Antarctic excursions with Shackleton and Scott.

Lunch was at Pret A Manger. (Yes, we are hooked.).  Cambridge is clearly a university city.  It is big, vibrant, and very busy.  Lots of hen parties in progress.  We walked back to the B&B along the River Cam, stopping for a pint at the Fort St George Pub where I chatted with a local in a Red Sox hat.  He was just back with his kids from a week in Boston and two weeks in Florida.  Then it was nap time.  We had cocktails in the garden at the B&B and dinner was a repeat affair at the Old Spring Pub.

We awoke Friday morning at 6:00 AM to steady rain.  Finally the forecasters got it right.  It is pouring right now, so loading the car will be a wet undertaking.  We’ll get it done and be off to Cambridge at around 8:00.  I’ll finish this post from our B&B in Cambridge tonight.

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So we arrived in Cambridge at about 1:00 PM after a wet ride with a few periods of lashing rain.  We couldn’t check in to about 3:30 PM, so we decided to have a walkabout in downtown Cambridge.  In the rain, you ask?  Well, no.  As we pulled into Cambridge proper, the rain stopped.  By the time we parked the car, the sun was out.  And it was truly warm, 80 degrees.  I don’t think we had hit 70 degrees except maybe once or twice, and then just barely, on the whole trip.

I’ll be brief today.  Cambridge is home to the University of Cambridge which consists of many colleges.  The grounds of all are closed this week for exams.  May Week (yes, in June) will be starting shortly, a celebration by university students of the end of the school year.

Kings College Chapel, one of the most notable buildings of the colleges, was open, so we paid a visit.  The interior is beautiful but diminished somewhat by the fact that the huge organ is being totally refurbished.  Then we had a walk along the River Cam to watch the punts offering tourists a riverside view of Cambridge.  Finally we found a Sainsbury store to buy some wine and drove to our B&B.

We checked into Sayle House – we have the Allium Room.  Beautiful house.  Beautiful garden.  Our bathroom is bigger than most B&B bedrooms – huge.  Dinner was at the Old Spring Pub, the closest pub to the B&B.  Then it was home to the most wonderful mattress and pillows we have encountered during our travels.  More from Cambridge tomorrow.

Pictures from Kings College Chapel (Click to Enlarge)

Pictures from Around Cambridge

We are starting to wind down and wear out.  So today we decided to let Vic the Volvo rest and spend our time in tiny Craster.  Weather forecast for today: Rain, heavy at time.  Really?  Nope, they got it wrong. . . . again.  As of 5 PM we have had nothing but bright sunny skies.  We can see the rain clouds way out to sea though.

A Craster Mystery for you to Solve

Below is a picture of the Anchor Inn, a pub in Craster.

But there is no Anchor Inn Pub in Craster!

Here’s a picture of Ryan’s Boat Tours stand at Craster Harbor, advertising several daily bird watching trips to nearby islands.

But there are no sightseeing boats at Craster and the islands are not nearby!

What’s going on?

Could this help explain?:

Give up?

The Solution

ITV, BBC’s privately owned competitor, is in town filming an episode from the popular British TV show, Vera.  Vera is a detective.  They are now filming the seventh series, and they air in the US on PBS.  The 7th season will air in the UK in 2017.  The first three series are also available to stream in the US on Amazon Prime or Hulu (but not on Netflix).  The star of the show is diminutive detective DCI Vera Stanhope played by Brenda Blythen, quite an accomplished actress.

The Anchor Inn is actually a holiday home.  The Anchor Inn sign went up earlier this week and will come down after filming.  The whole Ryan Boat Tour stand is only a prop and will be gone after filming.  The police vehicles are props and the police men are actors.  It was fun watching.

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For lunch, I walked down to Robson & Sons Smokehouse and bought a couple of shellfish pots and a couple of Craster kipper fishcakes.  A delicious lunch accompanied by a little wine.  Dessert was a couple of delicious Border dark chocolate ginger cookies.  I have to find these in the US.  (They are on Amazon but at a ridiculous price.)

Tomorrow we have our longest drive of the trip – 5 hours to get from Craster to Cambridge where we spend the next two nights.  The weather forecast predicts we will have rain.  We’ll see.

Some Evening Photos in Craster
“The Sea Was Angry Tonight, My Friends”

Dinner at the Jolly Fisherman.  Yum Yum.

Joe: Six Lindisfarne Oysters, Craster Bouillabaisse, and a Trio of Ice Creams
Elaine:  Squash Soup, Sea Bream, and Sticky Toffee Pudding

Wednesday was a notable day – it is the first day on this entire trip that we have not seen the sun at all.  Have we really been in the UK and Ireland all this time?.  Still, it did not rain, so it was not a miserable day by any means.

Getting a bit tired with all the touring, we decided to make today a fairly short but not a culture free day.  We drove to Lindisfarne, better known as the Holy Island.  It is a tidal island, accessible by the excellent Lindisfarne Causeway during periods of low tide, completely surrounded by the sea at high tide.  Basically there are two six-hour windows during the day when you can drive to and from Lindisfarne.  The time schedule is well published and, as do the tides, changes from day-to-day.  Today’s window was from 9:35 AM until 3:45 PM.  We were about the twelfth car to cross the causeway.  All parking is in a public lot just on the outskirts of town.  Only residents can drive in the town itself.  Damn residents!

So, what to see?  First we embarked on the long walk to Lindisfarne Castle which is administered by the National Trust.  I think we were the first ones to arrive and enter.  The castle was a fortification dating back to 1550 and saw battles between English and Scottish armies as well as incursions by the Vikings.  It was built with stones from the Priory (more on that later) which went out of use at about that time.  In 1901 the castle was acquired by Edward Hudson, the publisher of Country Life magazine.  He had it refurbished by Edward Lutyens, often referred to as the greatest British architect, into an Edwardian holiday home.  Lutyens also designed furniture, and much of the furniture in the house was designed by him.  Quirkily but beautifully furnished, the castle was sold several times, complete with furniture, until it was bequeathed to the National Trust in 1921.  The NT now displays it as it was a holiday home.

YOUR DAILY REMINDER – CLICK ON PICS TO ENLARGE THEM

Lindisfarne Priory, today just a ruin, was once the center of Christianity in Northumberland.  It was the headquarters of St Aidan – we visited his church in Bamburgh in a previous post.  “Aidan of Lindisfarne (died August 31, 651) was an Irish monk and missionary credited with restoring Christianity to Northumbria. He founded a monastic cathedral on the island of Lindisfarne, served as its first bishop, and traveled ceaselessly throughout the countryside, spreading the gospel to both the Anglo-Saxon nobility and to the socially disenfranchised (including children and slaves).  He is known as the Apostle of Northumbria and is recognized as a saint by the Orthodox Church, the Roman Catholic Church, the Anglican Communion and others.”  There is history galore at Lindisfarne Priory.  I will spare you.  Click the links above if you are interested.

We also paid a brief visit to St Mary’s Parish Church in Lindisfarne.  (Is there a church not named St Mary’s anywhere? – OK, we did see St Aidan’s in Bamburgh.)  “The church is reputed to stand on the site of the original monastery founded by Aidan in 635 AD. Parts of the structure date back to the 7th century, several hundred years before the appearance of the Priory.  While its main role is to serve the small Island community it is also a year-around focus for tens of thousands of visitors and pilgrims – Christian and others.”

It being noon, the Holy Island was now crowded with visitors.  We hustled our butts over to the Ship’s Inn and secured a table for lunch.  Elaine had her cider (Aspall’s this time) and I celebrated Christianity with a pint of Holy Island Blessed Bitter on draught, brewed in nearby Newcastle.  We both had delicious fish and chips.

Then it was back to Vic the Volvo for the thirty-minute ride back to Craster for much needed naps.  Dinner tonight was at home.  Tomorrow, our last full day in Craster, we plan to stay in town.  Maybe I’ll take some pictures of the Anchor Inn pub in town.  But there is no Anchor Inn pub in Craster.  How will I do it then?  Come back tomorrow.

Update:  I wrote this at 5 PM on Wednesday and reported on no sun today.  At 6 PM the sun came out briefly!

Travel Technology Tidbits (for those who care)

• Always carry a spare SD card so when your camera SD card fails, you have a spare.  And always transfer your photos every day to another device as backup
• The WiFi on this trip has been excellent, much better than previous trips – uploading photos for the blog, usually a hastle, has not been an issue
• My Bluetooth portable speaker (Pac2Go Speaker) works brilliantly for playing music during dinner at home
• It is nigh on impossible to connect to Cox Web Mail from a European WiFi server. (Shame on Cox) Fortunately I have a subscription to HMA (HideMyAss) VPN (virtual private network), aptly named, that allows me to change the connection to a US based server.  It also encrypts all internet traffic so I can safely access sites like banking and credit cards sites when and if necessary
• The WiFi here is often unsecured.  I use a travel router (D-Link DIR 510-L) to make it more secure, and I can connect multiple devices (like a Kindle or a mobile phone as well as my PC) through it
• The Microsoft Surface Pro 3 continues to be an excellent (albeit expensive) travel computer
• My Camera (Canon G16) and my camera bag (SnapR) rock!  The camera is excellent in low light, a blessing indoors, as flash is usually not allowed at historic sites
• My PAC2GO plug adapter lets me charge three devices at one time – one via plugging it in and two via USB.  That’s helpful as we have to charge the computer, my cell phone, camera batteries, our Kindles, the D-Link router, the portable speaker, and, last but not least, our toothbrushes
• Rather annoyingly, Braun toothbrushes come with a charger that works only on US 120 V power.  It would burn up on Europe’s 240 V.  All the other devices we carry will work on 120-240 V.  So I had to search out and buy a 240 V. charger for the Braun toothbrushes before we left home.  Amazon rocks!

Tuesday was a mostly nice weather day yet again.  We had a few drops of rain in late afternoon, but nothing to speak of.

Today’s plan was an all-day boating adventure from Seahouses, just a short ride up the road from Craster, to the Farne Islands which are administered by the National Trust (NT).  The NT charges a landing fee on each island, but our NT passes exempt us from that.   We had reservations with Billy Shiels Tours for the 9:30 all day trip which included trips to two of the Farne Islands as well as a cruise around the islands.  We got there to check in at 9:00 and were told landing on Staple Island would be impossible due to conditions, so our tour would begin at 11:30 instead with just one stop at Inner Farne.  We had packed a lunch to eat on the islands, so we adjusted plans, had a walkabout Seahouses, and ate an early lunch on a bench overlooking Seahouses Harbor.  I forgot my hat, so I decided to buy a cheap one, mainly as a defense against too much sun.  Little did I know how good a decision that was.

 

 

 

 

We boarded a very crowded boat at 11:30 and headed for the Farnes, just 15 minutes away.  We cruised around several of the Farnes and saw breeding birds on the cliffs.  The major sight was the grey seal colony that we passed through.  The red and white lighthouse replaced the lighthouse from which Grace Darling launched her famous rescue mission.

 

 

 

Then we landed on Inner Farne for a close-up look at the birds.  We would be on the small island for three hours.  That’s way too long,  but we made the best of it.  You can walk the entire island and see everything in 45 minutes, so we definitely saw everything.  There are tens of thousands of birds on Inner Farne, and it is breeding season.  The first birds you encounter are arctic terns, many of them sitting on eggs.  They are very protective and love to attack the incoming bird watchers by flying and hovering above them, pecking down on their heads.  Thus, the hat that I bought was an essential item, and trust me, the birds loved pecking the top of the tallest guy’s head.  The arctic tern, amazingly, winters in the Weddell Sea in Antarctica and summers here in the Farnes to breed.

I can’t possibly name all the birds we saw, but there were puffins, arctic terns, shags, eider ducks, black headed gulls, cormorants, oyster catchers, and many more.  There are birds everywhere!  The Brits love their birds, so they were all happy as clams.  As I said, three hours on the island is overkill, but it was very interesting to see the birds.  The puffins are the cutest.  They breed in furrows, and the black headed gulls love to attack the puffins and chase them down into their underground nests.

OK, here are the bird pictures.  Lots of them.  Enjoy or skip.  Some of these pictures almost look fake.  They are not.  I took them all of them, and all the birds are live.  The stones with numbers on them are markings from the National Trust volunteers who count and monitor all the eggs, a monumental task.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After getting back to the mainland, we rushed home as it was past cocktail hour.  Elaine cooked tonight.  Lamb steaks with veg.  Yum.  After dinner we had wine outside watching the ocean and chatting with amblers on their way to see the castle.  Then early to bed.

 

 

Monday morning.  The sun is shining bright at 4:30 AM.  Under sunny skies Elaine went for an early walk up to Dunstanburgh Castle again while I attended to the blog.  She met and walked along with a woman from Tyne and Wear (but not from Whitely Bay and she did not know any Borthwicks, Sue).  After finishing the blog and taking my shower, I started out on the same walk across the fields (moors?).  By the time I met Elaine heading back, the clouds had rolled in off the ocean.  (They would quickly burn off later in the morning.)

CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our drive for the day was to the Ford and Etal Estate villages.  We skipped Ford and concentrated on Etal, often described in guide books as “ridiculously picturesque”.  I would say it lived up to its billing.  Etal is a small village about 100 yards long and consisting of a single street.  The Black Bull Pub is the only thatched roof pub in Northumberland.  Unfortunately it seems permanently closed.

 

 

 

 

At the end of Etal’s street stand the remains of Etal Castle.  We visited the castle.  It is famous as one of the major defenses for the Battle of Flodden.  OK, in 1513 King Henry VIII of England had ventured off to France to conquer Europe.  King James IV of Scotland decided to take advantage of his absence and conquer England with a large army.  Bad move, Jimmy!  The Scots were routed at Flodden Field and estimates of causalities ranged between 1,500 and 12,000 Scottish dead.  James IV was among those killed.  It was a decisive defeat for Scotland.

(Aside to Sue Urbani:  one of those killed at Flodden Field was William Borthwick, the 3rd Lord Borthwick.)

 

 

We had cups of hot chocolate at the Lavender Tea Room at the Etal Post Office.  Then we walked across the road and visited the Church of St Mary the Virgin.  There is a little steam railway that chugs between Etal and Heatherslaw, a fifteen minute journey.  We watched the train but skipped the ride although we did also stop off at Heatherslaw for a quick look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we drove across the River Tweed into Scotland for a quick look at the Museum in Coldstream, dedicated to the Coldstream Guards.  It was lunch time, so we picked the Besom Pub for sandwiches, beer, and cider, sitting outside in the warm sunshine.  (Warm here is 65 or so, not 112 like Scottsdale is enjoying.)

 

We headed back to Craster, passing through Berwick Upon Tweed for a stop at Tesco.  We needed to pick up picnic supplies for tomorrow as there will be no lunch spots available to us.  Stay in suspense as to why until tomorrow’s post.  We also bought the makings for one more home-cooked dinner at Craster Rocks.  Not for tonight though.  We think we are eating at the Craster Seafood Restaurant, and adjunct of Robson Kipper Smokehouse.  We called for a reservation and left a message, but they cannot call us back because there is no mobile service available in Craster.  We’ll be walking down the road to see if we eat there soon.

Update: Yes, we ate at Craster Seafood Restaurant.  Great views.  Friendly people.  Wonderful food.  Awful service.  It was a long meal.  After dinner we went across the road to the Jolly Fisherman for after dinner drinks.

Starters
Joe:  Trio of homemade patés (salmon, kipper, & tuna) served with biscuits & chutney
Elaine:  Lentil and chorizo Soup

Mains
Joe:  Pan seared halibut served with gateau of aubergine
Elaine:  King prawns & scallops with a purée of butternut squash & coconut (best purée ever!) 

 

 

 

 

Sunday.  It’s the last day of school break week in the UK.  We started the day with low clouds but the weather evolved into a beautiful afternoon.  Elaine took her usual walk in the morning up to Dunstanburgh Castle, a National Trust property in Craster.  Our house is actually on National Trust land.  We have to open a gate to get onto NT land to park at the house.  The gate is also the pedestrian trail entrance to Dunstanburgh Castle which is about a 1.25 mile walk from the gate.  I’ll have to walk up later in the week.

Today’s activity was a short drive to Bamburgh to visit Bamburgh Castle.  Remember Lord Armstrong from Cragside which we visited yesterday?  He acquired Bamburgh Castle late in the 19th century and completed a restoration.  His family still owns it.  It is quite a magnificent structure.  We arrived when they opened at 10:00 AM and beat the hoards that arrived later.  The State Apartments didn’t open until 11:00, so after a walk around the grounds, we had hot chocolate and scones in the cafe.  When we left the castle after viewing the State Apartments, the parking lots were jammed.

CLICK ON PICTURES TO ENLARGE IN NEW TAB OR WINDOW

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had lunch at the Castle Hotel Pub in Bamburgh, and we enjoyed it outside in their beer garden.  I had two grilled kippers and some chips (fries).  Kippers are big in the area, and Craster, our home town, is also the home of Robson and Sons which is most famous of the few kipper smokers still operating.  Their store is open every day, and they have a restaurant that we will try later in the week.  The kippers were delicious.

 

Bamburgh is the home of one Grace Darling who is quite a darling in British history.  Grace was 22 years old when she risked her life in an open boat to help the survivors of the wrecked SS Forfarshire on 7 September 1838. With her father, she rowed for over a mile through raging seas to reach them. The courage that Grace and her family showed on that day is now legendary.  Grace was the media celebrity of her day. She was celebrated internationally and was showered with honors, including the RNLI‘s Silver Medal for Gallantry. A museum was established in 1938 to commemorate her life.

We visited the RNLI Grace Darling Museum in Bamburgh.  RNLI stands for Royal National Lifeboat Association, the charity that saves lives at sea in the UK and Ireland. It was founded in 1824 and it’s saved 139,000 lives since then.  Grace was the first woman to win an RNLI medal.  The museum is small but interesting.  While in town we also came across the cottage in which she was born and the one in which she died.  Sadly, she died at 27 of tuberculosis just four years after her daring rescue effort.

 

 

We also stopped in at Bamburgh’s St. Aidan’s Church (Church of England, Anglican).  In 635 AD St Aidan was called to Bamburgh from Iona (in the Scottish Hebrides) by King Oswald to establish Christianity in his newly united kingdom of Northumbria.  He established his headquarters here in Bamburgh.  Grace Darling is buried in the church graveyard.

 

 

 

 

Then we drove home for a quiet afternoon under glorious sunshine.  I went to the Jolly Fisherman, the town’s local pub as well as the fine restaurant that we frequented last night.  I had a pint (two, actually) with locals who retired here from Liverpool.  I also took a few shots of Craster in the sunshine.

 

 

 

Elaine cooked dinner at home, and we had a quiet night at Craster Rocks.  After dinner we had a walkabout town before bed.

 

 

 

 

Saturday.  Cloudy start.  Cloudy end.  Sun and clouds in between.  No rain.  After arising, I walked around town for a bit and took a few snaps of little Craster.  Elaine was on her power walk around the coast.

Click Pics to Enlarge

OUT AND ABOUT IN CRASTER

 

At 9:30 we hopped in the car for what I expected would be a boring day overall and early return to Craster Rocks for naps and cocktails.  It wasn’t to be.  Our first stop was Alnwick Castle and Garden.  Just another castle, yes?  No.  Alnwick is the home of the 12th Duke and Duchess of Northumberland.  It is closed from October to April as they are in residence.  From May through September it is open to the public.  The castle has some notoriety as a venue for film.  It was the location for the first two Harry Potter films.  It was the setting for parts of Cate Blanchett’s movie, Elizabeth.  It was the setting for Brancaster Castle, the location for the last two Downton Abbey Christmas episodes.  The beautiful formal dining room is still set as it was for the Downton Christmas dinner, and the have the actual outfits worn by the cast on display.

The castle exterior is stunning.  No photography allowed inside the castle unfortunately.  They have a Dragon Quest where you hunt dragons.  They have the Northumberland Fusiliers Museum.  The Alnwick Garden is brilliant.  Good thing it was entertaining because it cost £21 per person (after senior discount) to see it all.  What we expected to be a 30 minute glance at another castle took up the better part of three hours.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From there we moved on Cragside House, a National Trust property, so our membership saved the admission charges.  Cragside was home of Lord William Armstrong who was quite the water related inventor.  It is a country house and was the first house in the world to be lit using hydroelectric power. It is built into a rocky hillside above a forest garden of just under 1,000 acres.  Cragside was built in 1863 as a modest two-storey country lodge, but was subsequently extended into an elaborate mansion in the Free Tudor style. At one point, the building included an astronomical observatory and a scientific laboratory.  It is surrounded by one of Europe’s largest rock gardens, a large number of rhododendrons and a large collection of mostly coniferous trees. One variety of rhododendron is named after Lady Armstrong.

In 1868, a hydraulic engine was installed, with water being used to power labor-saving machines such as laundry equipment, a rotisserie and a hydraulic lift. In 1870, water from one of the estate’s lakes was used to drive a Siemens dynamo in what was the world’s first hydroelectric power station. The resultant electricity was used to power an arc lamp installed in the Gallery in 1878. The arc lamp was replaced in 1880 by Joseph Swan’s incandescent lamps in what Swan considered ‘the first proper installation’ of electric lighting.  (Thomas Alva Who?)  The use of electricity in many of the houses gadgets and systems has also led it to be described by some as a smart home as it was the first private residence to use incandescent lighting, a dish washer, a vacuum cleaner and a washing machine.  One of Armstrong’s stated aims of both using and funding these new automation technologies was to “emancipate the world from household drudgery”, as shown on a plaque at Bamburgh Castle, his other residence.  (We may visit there later in the week.)

CRAGSIDE HOUSE PHOTOS

 

We drove home after that, stopping only to fill Vic up with diesel.  It was cocktail hour by the time we got home, so we indulged.  Tonight we had reservations at the Jolly Fisherman in Craster, just a short walk from the house.  The restaurant is very popular and rightly so.  I had their famous Crab Soup (Craster is a crabbing mecca) for a starter and a wonderful Cold Fish Platter for my main.  Elaine started with Crab Thermidor and had a delicious Game Pie for her main.  We shared a trio of ice creams for dessert.  No pictures as we forgot the camera.  We go back there again on Thursday.