At the end of February Elaine traveled with our good friend Mianne to Vietnam for an adventure.  Here is her report complete with pictures.

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GOOD MORNING VIETNAM!!!

On Sunday, February 28th, my travel companion and good friend, Mianne Hanley, and I left Phoenix for a grand adventure. We arrived at LAX (Los Angeles) early evening and checked into our hotel. We met Joe and Nancy Lee from South Boston, who had arranged the trip. The Lees are old teaching friends of Mianne’s. We had a nice meet and greet dinner and then returned to our respective hotels for the night.

On Monday, the 29th, we boarded Korean Airlines for a flight to Seoul, South Korea where we changed planes for the flight to Ho Chi Min City (HCMC) (which most people still refer to as Saigon). After crossing the international date line,, we arrived in HCMC on March 1st at approximately midnight and then boarded our bus to our hotel. By the time we checked in (no computers) we finally got to bed around 2 AM on the 2nd. We had an early morning wake up call and a group meeting with our tour guide, Trinh Huy Tho, at 8 AM.

March 2nd we did a tour of HCMC which included a visit to Notre Dame Cathedral and then on to the Central Post Office. The Post Office is just a magnificent French influenced building. The wooden phone booths, which are still working, were beautiful. The post office was bustling with tourists, school children and locals trying to conduct business. The outside was filled with peddlers of all kinds.

Trying to cross a street in Saigon takes a certain skill. Saigon has 8.2 million residents and 5.8 million motorbikes and scooters. You hear nothing but the horns of the scooters and bikes wherever you go. There is not much traffic control here. We saw families with babies riding between the mother and father on one scooter. Sometimes we saw 4 people riding on one scooter. There were a few crosswalks where the scooters do slow down if they see people trying to cross, but, then again, some will just scoot around you. We also saw the Opera House and City Hall, both beautiful structures. We visited a lacquer workshop and watched artisans at work. The inlay on various objects was with abalone, duck eggs and other assorted woods. It requires great skill and in the USA OSHA would certainly close this down – there were no masks being worn, no safety glasses or anything else. It’s amazing the conditions they work in.

Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

Notre Dame Cathedral

Saigon Post Office

Post Office Interior

Phone Booths in Post Office

Saigon Street Life

Outside American Embassy

Then we visited the Ben Thanh Market. It is overwhelming. Everything is sold here. Stall after stall after stall of clothing, flowers, food, meat, shoes – anything one needs. It’s a paradise for bargain hunters!

Ben Thanh Market Photos (above)

Around noon we returned to the hotel. Joe, Nancy, Mianne and I walked around the neighborhood stopping at Pho 24 for what else but pho. Pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup served with beef or chicken. You are given a plate of herbs to add to the soup as you desire. It is eaten anytime of day by the Vietnamese. We then hit an exchange house and got some Vietnamese dong (currency). [One US$ = 22,290 dong]

It was nap time for most, but I decided to walk around a bit more. I went up to Revolution Square and walked down the large pedestrian mall to the riverbank. The fountains were running, and people were outside enjoying lunch, the water fountains and people watching.

The four of us met again after everyone got some well deserved rest, and we headed out to the Rex Hotel for cocktails before dinner. The Rex was made famous during the Vietnam War when it hosted the American military command’s daily conference, derisively named “Five O’Clock Follies” by cynical journalists who found the optimism of the American officers to be misguided. The rooftop bar at the Rex was a well-known hangout for military officials and war correspondents. The view of the city at night is spectacular. We then headed to Lemongrass for a fantastic dinner enjoyed by all, and then it was time for bed.

A Saigon Skyscraper

A Cocktail at the Rex

Revolution Square (Rex Hotel on Left)

The Rex Hotel

On March 3 we flew to Da Nang where we boarded a bus heading to Hoi An, one of Vietnam’s most picturesque towns. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. No motorized vehicles are allowed in the old section. There is a mix of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and French architecture. Then there are the lanterns – at night the town basks in the warm glow of lanterns lining the streets, hanging from trees and store fronts. It is a wonderful sight. Hoi An is situated on the Thu Bon River and was once a major trading port.

There are endless rows of tailors in Hoi An who make made-to-order clothes in 24 hours. This was Mianne’s first stop for clothes. After Mianne being measured, picking out fabric, deciding on which neckline, and deciding on how long the sleeves should be, we headed to meet the group for dinner at a lovely restaurant on the river.

The following day we headed to An Bang Beach after Mianne’s second fitting at another tailor. The beach was gorgeous. However, the South China Sea was a bit too cold for us to swim in, the surf was quite heavy, and we were warned about an undertow. So, we just soaked up some sun and then headed back to the hotel for our 3:00 PM Eco tour.

HOI AN PICTURES:

We boarded the Jack Trans Eco Tour boat for a leisurely ride where we learned about fishing and even tried our hand at making rings and headdresses from river reeds. A few of us tried our hand at paddling the basket boats. We ended our eco tour on the back of a water buffalo. It was a fun way to spend an afternoon. After cleaning up a bit and enjoying wine by the pool we headed to the “new” Hoi An. This area is right across the bridge from the old area. Here we had a most memorable meal at Cava. It was a fantastic end to a really great day.

Greeting Cards (available everywhere)

Tho, Our Tour Guide (on left)

At An Bang Beach

An Bang Beach

Round Boat Ride

Our Friends on Round Boat Ride

Riding a Water Buffalo

Again

China Beach outside Da Nang

Da Nang

On March 5th we headed out via bus to Hue. Along the way we stopped at a quite impressive marble factory. Again, OSHA would be closing this place down. The marble workers wore no safety goggles, and you could just walk up to them chipping away at marble with pieces flying everywhere. We arrived in Hue, checked into our hotel, and then left for a tour of the Citadel and Imperial City which is inside the Citadel walls. The structures here suffered severe damage during the Tet Offensive and are in the process of being restored. The Citadel is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  After that we returned to our hotel for a quick clean up before a Cyclo Tour from the hotel through the streets of Hue, including the night market, ending up at the Y Thao family home. We had dinner at the restaurant attached to the home. It was a delicious six course meal of wonderfully decorated food.

SCENES ON THE ROAD TO HUE (Below)

PICTURES OF THE CITADEL & IMPERIAL CITY IN HUE (Below)

Hue Market Pictures (Below)

The following day we hired a guide to take us to the countryside. It was a nice change from the noise and hustle of the city. We went to a very small village along the river where we walked through the market and eventually made our way to a magnificent covered bridge. We then went to the museum where we were entertained and enlightened by a 78-year-old village woman who showed us how the rice was harvested and separated. We also visited several pagodas and the Khai Dinh Tomb. This tomb is the resting place of the last of the Nguyen Dynasty. This emperor was not liked by the Vietnamese due to his collaboration with the French government. We also passed through a most colorful village where they make incense. The streets were lined with stalls filled with incense sticks of all colors.

Hue – The Perfume River

Perfume River

Washing Clothes in River

Village Market

Typical Village Home

Covered Wooden Tiled Bridge

Buddhist Monastery

Again

Again

And Again

On March 7th we flew to Hanoi and then boarded a bus for the ride to Halong Bay. It was a long ride but we enjoyed the small villages and countryside we traveled through. We enjoyed a group dinner at the hotel after a long day of travel.

Road to Halong Bay

Again

Ferry Port – Halong Bay

Kitchen on Junk Boat Cruise

On March 8th we headed out to Halong Bay which is another World Heritage Site. Unfortunately, it was cloudy and misty, but nonetheless we boarded a junk boat for a five hour tour of this amazing site. It is filled with towering limestone formations that host tropical rain forests. We also climbed up to the Thien Cung Cave. Lunch was served on board the boat. The food was delicious and included a fish dish and beef dish. Of course, one cannot forget the ubiquitous spring rolls that were also served. Amazing dishes prepared in a cramped kitchen on board. One member of our group brought on bottles of champagne to celebrate his wife’s birthday. It was a wonderful ending to another wonderful day of exploration.

PICTURES OF HALONG BAY (Below)

We then drove to Hanoi and checked into our hotel. Mianne, Nancy, Joe and I met for a drink downstairs after settling in. We then ventured out into the night to find a place to eat. After making our way across several hazardous streets we found a wonderful place for dinner. We sat in a beautiful courtyard and felt far removed from the noisy traffic outside. Nancy was in heaven because they made a fairly decedent Manhattan! There was no way this restaurant would get a bad review! The meal was just delicious as well. It’s amazing how little money we spent for all of our dinners out. This particular night, we had drinks and meals and ended up paying around $9 US per person. We were just amazed every time we ate out and got the bill – delicious food and drinks cheap.

Driving into Hanoi

Driving into Hanoi

Driving into Hanoi

View from Hotel Window (Hanoi)

Hanoi Street Life

A Hospital (Scary!)

Again (Glad I Wasn’t Sick)

Ho Chi Minh Tomb – Guard Changing

National Assembly

Hanoi Street Life

Hanoi Street Life

Hanoi Street Life

Hanoi Street Life

On March 10 we did a tour of the Museum of Ethnology. It is considered the most modern museum in Vietnam. (No pictures allowed!)  It’s a very busy place with many interesting exhibits regarding the history and the numerous cultures that make up Vietnam. We had lunch across the street from the Hoan Kiem Lake which is located in the historical section of Hanoi. It is very scenic and obviously is a spot where locals tend to congregate. That afternoon we were entertained at a water puppet show. There are many theaters around Hanoi that offer these shows, and they are wildly popular and very entertaining. We had dinner with several other members of the group at the same restaurant as the previous evening.

Hoan Kiem Lake

Hanoi at Night

Buddhist Temple Near Hotel (Below)

March 11th was the last day of our trip. We again decided to do a tour of the countryside. We hired a van and driver and headed out to a village where large scale furniture is made. There was little evidence of large tools being used other than small electric sanders – almost everything was hand carved and hand sanded. We then were taken to Bat Trang Ceramic Village. The ceramics were all handmade, dipped and painted at the ceramic factory. The kilns were enormous. On the way back to Hanoi we stopped at St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a beautiful catholic church near the lake.

Bat Trang Ceramic Village (Below)

Hanoi from Top Floor of Hotel (Below)

St Joseph’s Cathedral – Hanoi

Some of the Crew

Then we returned to our hotel to pack our bags. The group later walked to a wonderful little restaurant for a farewell dinner. The food, again, was delicious and interesting. My favorite items were grilled eggplant with oil and shallot and shredded papaya salad with dried beef. Toasts were made and goodbyes were said; a perfect ending to a wonderful whirlwind trip through Vietnam.

GOODNIGHT AND GOODBYE VIETNAM!!!