Day 25 – A Drive to Etal

Monday morning.  The sun is shining bright at 4:30 AM.  Under sunny skies Elaine went for an early walk up to Dunstanburgh Castle again while I attended to the blog.  She met and walked along with a woman from Tyne and Wear (but not from Whitely Bay and she did not know any Borthwicks, Sue).  After finishing the blog and taking my shower, I started out on the same walk across the fields (moors?).  By the time I met Elaine heading back, the clouds had rolled in off the ocean.  (They would quickly burn off later in the morning.)

CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our drive for the day was to the Ford and Etal Estate villages.  We skipped Ford and concentrated on Etal, often described in guide books as “ridiculously picturesque”.  I would say it lived up to its billing.  Etal is a small village about 100 yards long and consisting of a single street.  The Black Bull Pub is the only thatched roof pub in Northumberland.  Unfortunately it seems permanently closed.

 

 

 

 

At the end of Etal’s street stand the remains of Etal Castle.  We visited the castle.  It is famous as one of the major defenses for the Battle of Flodden.  OK, in 1513 King Henry VIII of England had ventured off to France to conquer Europe.  King James IV of Scotland decided to take advantage of his absence and conquer England with a large army.  Bad move, Jimmy!  The Scots were routed at Flodden Field and estimates of causalities ranged between 1,500 and 12,000 Scottish dead.  James IV was among those killed.  It was a decisive defeat for Scotland.

(Aside to Sue Urbani:  one of those killed at Flodden Field was William Borthwick, the 3rd Lord Borthwick.)

 

 

We had cups of hot chocolate at the Lavender Tea Room at the Etal Post Office.  Then we walked across the road and visited the Church of St Mary the Virgin.  There is a little steam railway that chugs between Etal and Heatherslaw, a fifteen minute journey.  We watched the train but skipped the ride although we did also stop off at Heatherslaw for a quick look.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then we drove across the River Tweed into Scotland for a quick look at the Museum in Coldstream, dedicated to the Coldstream Guards.  It was lunch time, so we picked the Besom Pub for sandwiches, beer, and cider, sitting outside in the warm sunshine.  (Warm here is 65 or so, not 112 like Scottsdale is enjoying.)

 

We headed back to Craster, passing through Berwick Upon Tweed for a stop at Tesco.  We needed to pick up picnic supplies for tomorrow as there will be no lunch spots available to us.  Stay in suspense as to why until tomorrow’s post.  We also bought the makings for one more home-cooked dinner at Craster Rocks.  Not for tonight though.  We think we are eating at the Craster Seafood Restaurant, and adjunct of Robson Kipper Smokehouse.  We called for a reservation and left a message, but they cannot call us back because there is no mobile service available in Craster.  We’ll be walking down the road to see if we eat there soon.

Update: Yes, we ate at Craster Seafood Restaurant.  Great views.  Friendly people.  Wonderful food.  Awful service.  It was a long meal.  After dinner we went across the road to the Jolly Fisherman for after dinner drinks.

Starters
Joe:  Trio of homemade patés (salmon, kipper, & tuna) served with biscuits & chutney
Elaine:  Lentil and chorizo Soup

Mains
Joe:  Pan seared halibut served with gateau of aubergine
Elaine:  King prawns & scallops with a purée of butternut squash & coconut (best purée ever!)