Being brief today.

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We walked in the morning. Cloudy but dry. There’s one electric car charging station in Dingle (that I’ve seen). I’ve never seen it being used. Photo worthy? Hardly. Remember the day when you didn’t take photos because film and developing was so expensive?

We took a ride. We stopped in Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh in Irish) and visited the small church there (St. Vincent’s) to light some candles.

We drove down a new minor road and visited Wine Strand. Strand means beach. Duh! I suppose you knew that. We had friends that we met through Bill & Mianne who used to rent a house at Wine Strand — Paul (RIP) and Joan. We had some good times with them over the years of our visits. What are those standing stones up on the hill? We don’t know. We couldn’t get up to them because of barbed wire fences. The camera lens telephoto lens got closer than us. If we were ever at this spot before, it was a long time ago.

We had a pint each in Curren’s Pub back in Dingle and chatted up some ladies from Tralee (formerly from NYC). A good time was had by all. Maybe it was the beer.

Dinner was at home. Those are not Mr. Kennedy’s sausages but rather the supermarket variety. Mr. Kennedy was closed Sunday through Wednesday. How dare he!

ODDS & ENDS

Weather: Our weather has been good. Not much rain, lots of cloud, some beautiful sunny days. The highest temperature we have experienced so far has been about 62º F. That’s about the best you can hope for in Ireland. In counties Kerry (where we are), Clare, and Cork (westernmost Ireland), mid-April to mid-May is known as the Scaraveen. Basically, “expect anything”.

The Irish Riviera (in Massachusetts): Our friend Mianne (who comments frequently on the blog) sent us an interesting article. You can view in here. She lives in Scituate (the heart of the Irish Riviera) for half the year (with the other half in Scottsdale). She and Billy visited us here the year we had a house in Ventry, the next town west from Dingle.

Our car Eion (Owen) has been great. As you might recall, it’s a Toyota C-HR Hybrid. It has an automatic transmission, something you pay dearly for in a rental car in Europe. We’ll have been in Dingle three weeks come Friday and, so far, I have bought gas once ($51). Gas is about $7/gallon. I brought my own GPS since it costs a ridiculous $12/day to get one from Avis. The GPS (SatNav to Europeans) has a female voice. Her name is Fiona. She doesn’t get much work as I know my way around here on the Dingle Peninsula, but she’ll be invaluable on the road trip to Ballina and Donegal later in the trip.

I guess that wasn’t that brief. See you tomorrow.

We awoke to a partly sunny morning and the weather kept getting better right through afternoon. We took our separate walks, meeting up half way for a brief chat. Note the statue built out of plastic waste built by the children of the local elementary school.

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Lunch was at home sitting out in the backyard with our beautiful view (that you’ve already seen). Then at 2:00 pm we were off to little St. James’s Church (Church of Ireland) for another Féile na Bealtaine concert. First some views of the venue and surrounding area. The church is conveniently located right next to the Dingle Pub. Benner’s Hotel, opposite the entrance to the church, was once owned by some Boston lawyers. Also nearby is the Hare’s Corner where we had breakfast one morning.

The concert was by a new group called The Weaving. The Weaving is an inspirational fusion of Méabh Ní Bheaglaoich (Begley) on button accordion, Owen Spafford on fiddle and Cáit Ní Riain on piano. (I couldn’t find a good link for Cáit, but here is a link to one of her songs. You heard Méabh last night at the St Mary’s concert in memory of her father Seamus. They all also sing brilliantly. Here are some pictures taken at the concert including one taken out the window next to my seat. No videos this time, but just below the pictures are four recordings that I took during the concert. Enjoy the music if you like.

Dinner was at a new restaurant that Elaine has been dying to try – Solas. Our landlady, Grainne, also highly recommended it. So I was finally convinced to try it. It’s a tapas and wine bar. And it was grand. Oddly for a wine bar, no pinot noirs, so we had a St. Emilion Grand Cru from France. You can read the menu choices (below): we chose to share the bread with tomato confit, the fig tempura, the chorizo croquettes, and the scallop ceviche followed by the octopus carpaccio (shown half eaten) and the pork belly (not shown). The last picture shows the dessert (dark chocolate mousse with cream).

After dinner we stopped at O’Flaherty’s for a quiet drink. No music tonight, and the crowds from the festival are leaving dingle. The pub was blessedly quiet and we had a lovely conversation with an Irish tour guide from County Wexford.

It was a real do-nothing Sunday until after supper. We never left the house until then. Then it was off to a concert in St. Mary’s Church. The concert is part of the four-day Féile na Bealtaine. There are dozens of performances and events scheduled in Dingle town and the surrounding West Kerry area. The program is here. It’s a big deal and the town is packed for the long weekend (May 1st is a Monday bank holiday). Our event was a Tribute to Séamus Begley (Séamus Ó Beaglaoich) , a beloved Dingle musician who passed away at 72 this past January. His whole family (a daughter, three sons, and even some grandchildren) performed. Pauline Scanlon (who we saw in concert at last year’s festival), Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh, and Éilís Kennedy, all great in their own right, made guest appearances. The music was wonderful. Great singing, great flute music, great accordion music, and even some set dancing. Seamus’s wife participated in the dancing. Picture taking was discouraged but I did manage to take a short video during the encore after the standing ovation at the end of the concert. That’s Muireann Nic Amhlaoibh on the left and Méabh Ní Bheaglaoich (Maeve Begley) on the right. The night was a roaring success.

After the performance we decamped to O’Flaherty’s for a beer and a bit more music. The Guinness was a reward for two plus hours on a remarkably hard church pew. Smart attendees brought a cushion.

First off, I forgot (I think) to show you our delicious dinner at home one night – barbequed sausages with potato, veg, and wine. And nice flowers on the table too.

Saturday morning is linen change and clean up day. The girls were coming in at 10:30 to do that, so we headed out early to go downtown for breakfast at a new place, the Hare’s Corner. It’s only open for breakfast and lunch. It just opened about four weeks ago. I had the breakfast quesadilla; Elaine had an omelet. It was good. I guess they don’t have a web site yet. At least I couldn’t find it.

After breakfast Elaine stopped in at St Mary’s to light the daily candle for Paul. I snapped the odd picture.

Then we set off on a drive to to Fenit Harbour and Beach, just the other side of Tralee . The temperature was in the 50’s with a breeze, so we didn’t expect a lot of action at Fenit (where we had never been before). Amazingly there were people on the beach, people swimming, and one guy swimming with his dog. We were wrapped up tightly in our jackets. Here are some shots of the beach and the lighthouse on an island in the harbour.

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Near the end of the pier there are some interesting stones with explanatory signs. To get there you walk by lots of very nice boats in dry dock, and there is a statue commemorating the local fishermen. And there’s a mermaid statue too.

Finally at the very end of the harbour pier there is a little park commemorating St Brendan. You heard all about him in a prior post.

Back to Dingle then where we both stopped at Curran’s for a pint. We had a nice chat with Mr. Flannery. He’s a retired fisherman and his family now runs the Fish Box Restaurant where we have twice had lunch this trip.

Dinner was a return visit to the Half Door. It was very busy and we sat near a wedding party of 11. They were having a great time and were fun to watch. I had oysters followed by a seafood medley and crème brûlée for dessert. Elaine had a crab gratinée followed by local caught grilled cod and a white chocolate ganache.

After dinner it was off to a busy O’Flaherty’s for some music. Everyplace is very busy this week because it’s long weekend (bank holiday Monday) and there is a festival going on in town. More about the festival tomorrow. Here are some snaps and a brief music interlude from O’Flaherty’s. The group sitting next to us is a mother and her four daughters from Kilarney, in town for the festival. Elaine had a long chat with the Mom.

Time flies. Friday was foggy and rainy in the morning. Sunny and the warmest day yet in the afternoon. More rain early evening. We walked into town together – EGAD – and did some shopping. Mr. Kennedy’s for chicken breasts for tonight’s dinner. The Little Cheese Shop for some new cheeses including Young Buck Blue and Ash Covered Goat’s Cheese. O’Connor’s for strawberries, potatoes, onions, and some other veg. And the book store for me to get a new Ireland Road Atlas which we’ll need when we leave Dingle in two weeks for Donegal.

On the way into town we pass some row houses called The Wood. It’s a s strange name since there are no trees nearby. They look quite pedestrian from the street, but the back of the houses are directly on the water and are quite nice. Then there are some pics from Kennedy’s Butcher Shop. And we saw some young girls kayaking in the harbor.

Afternoon was mostly at home. I went into town (Curran’s) for the mandatory afternoon Guinness. Dinner was at home. Delicious barbequed chicken breasts with potatoes and peas. And wine, of course.

Finally an Irish weather day – cloudy, drizzly, foggy, and damp. Nice. We did next to nothing save for dinner out. So it’s just odds and ends today.

I did go into town for the odd pint at Curran’s. Also stopped in the Library to return some books and get a new one. I am now eager to read about the portion of Irish history from the Easter Rising in 1916 through the establishment of the Irish Free State (and the partition of Ireland) through the Civil War in 2025-ish.. So I am reading this book, a good mix of pictures and text. Should you be more interested, there is a great website with an abbreviated but accuracte account about this period and more here. I find Irish history fascinating.

Other than that there was just dinner at the Chart House, our first repeat visit to our top three (or maybe it’s four) restaurants. Let’s say four: the Chart House, Ashe’s, the Half Door, and Out of the Blue. It’s hard for me to pass up the rack of lamb here, and I didn’t pass it up. We started with kir royales and had Tinpot Hut Pinot Noir from New Zealand with the meal. On second thought saying “just dinner” does it a disservice.

Elaine: Starter: Dukkah Crusted Dingle Goats Cheese Bon Bons, Nectarine and Orange Relish, Carpaccio of Beetroot and Aged Balsamic Glaze – Main: Pan Seared Fillets of Monkfish, Braised Leeks, Cherry Tomatoes, Mussels Poached in Saffron, Herb Nage – Dessert: Dark Chocolate Parfait, White Chocolate & Vanilla Bean Cremeux, Salted Caramel, Candied Pecan Tuille, Chocolate Crumb.

Joe: Starter: Braised Sticky Pork Belly, seared Atlantic Scallops, Roasted Fennel and Date Compote – Main: Roast Rack of Kerry Lamb, Dauphinoise Potatoes, Fig & Red Onion Chutney, Rosemary Jus – Dessert: Selection of Our Own Homemade Ice Cream, Served With Praline, & Spiced Chocolate Sauce.

I left out two pictures from our trip to Tralee yesterday. These are taken at an overlook on the N86 just outside the town of Camp. Most times here there are clouds, fog, rain, and/or drizzle. Today was delightful.

So we didn’t walk this morning. The weather was OK but we had been pre-notified that Dingle would without power from 9 am to about 5 pm as Electricity Ireland did maintenance work. So we showered and got out of town. To Tralee. Tralee is the commercial capital of County Kerry. Kilarney is the more famous tourist town. Dingle is the much smaller, once hidden, now discovered gem.

Anyway Tralee is actually a very pleasant city. It’s most famous for annual (in August) Rose of Tralee festival (much celebrated in song). We re-visited the Kerry County Museum. It’s an interesting place to spend an hour or two.

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First off, you will learn everything you need to know about Roger Casement, an Irish patriot and freedom fighter, who was executed for his part in a plan to import guns from Germany as part of the fight for Irish independence in the Easter Rising of 1916. His is a long, complicated story.

There was an interesting temporary exhibit of works by local artists that Elaine especially enjoyed.

There is one room dedicated to Antarctic explorer Tom Crean who participated in several trips to the South Pole with Sir Ernest Shackleton. Crean was a resident of nearby Anascual where he was publican at the South Pole Inn after he retired from expeditions. We have been there for lunch and for pints several times and may stop by again this trip. Here’s a picture of Tom and I at the South Pole.

And there is a walking journey through mediaeval Tralee.

From there we walked into the town center to have lunch at Quinlan’s, a well known fish market and restaurant. Alas, no go. Closed because of water damage. So we had a very nice lunch at Der O’Sullivan’s deli.

Then we visited the beautiful St John’s Church. Elaine was especially enamored with one of the stained glass windows. Can you pick which one? Candles were lit for Paul and for both our mothers and fathers.

Then it was a walk through the city park before heading back to Dingle.

I had a quick nap. Then we both went to Curran’s for the odd pint and met some more interesting locals (like ourselves).

Dinner was at home. Barbequed sausages from Mr. Kennedy’s. One final photo of Irish freedom fighters:

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It was sunny looking in one direction and raining in the other. Should we walk? We did. I hit drizzle for a short bit, but it was mostly dry. So today’s walk theme is “Pubs I Pass”. Now, if I walked in the afternoon and stopped in every pub, I would never make it home. Heh, I wouldn’t make it halfway. And this is not all the pubs in Dingle Town. I can take a different route and pass many more.

Here’s an accounting of what’s in the photo gallery:

Marina Inn – We may have been in here, but, if so, it was years ago

James Long Gastro Pub – We had lunch here last year sitting outside in the sun

Paudie’s Bar – Somewhere on the blog is a picture of me sipping Guinness at an outside table.

John Benny’s – a favorite place of ours’s for lunch

Murphy’s – We used to go here a lot but rarely visit anymore (Sorry, Billy & MIanne)

Paddie Bawn Brosnan’s – Paddie Bawn was an old Irish football legend, long dead. I go here usually once a trip for a pint and I think Elaine joined me once.

Hannie Agnus – a local hangout where I don’t think we have ever been.

Dick Mack’s – Probably the most famous pub in Dingle. It was once and technically still is a leather good and shoe shop as well as a pub. They now brew their own beer. Very popular tourist spot with a walk of fame out front with stars of people who have visited.

Curran’s – one of my favorites. You can watch travel write Rick Steves interview the owner, James Curran, on Facebook here.

Foxy John’s – Rent a bike, buy a hammer or wrench, and have a pint.

Adam’s Bar – Seems to be closed. Elaine and I have been in here.

Lord Baker’s – Alaine and I ate in here with her parents, Doc and Lena) 23 years ago.

Paul Geaney’s Bar – Paul, the owner, is the brother of our friend Tom Geaney who runs the Dingle Pub next door.

The Dingle Pub – My local. You already heard all about it

Ashe’s Bar – We eat dinner here every trip and love it.

Walker’s Bar – I’ve never been in and I’ve never seen it open.

Nelligan’s – Very good local music venue. We’ve been a few times.

An Droichead Beag (The Little Bridge) – It’s been ages since we’ve been in here. Caters to a young crowd with loud rock music.

The Courthouse Pub – We have been in. Very low ceilings. I cannot stand straight up in about 3/4’s of the pub.

The Dingle Distribution Point (Not a pub, but it seemed relevant)

Bob Griffin’s Pub – Fairly small and fairly new. I’ve never been in.

O’Flaherty’s – If you don’t recognize this one, then you haven’t been reading the blog.

Nice sunny day again. Are we in Ireland? We did our walks at 7:30 am. I passed a couple of different pubs on this route: Barr na Sraide and McCarthy’s. Never been to the first. Elaine and I have enjoyed pints in the second. McCarthy’s has an interesting two windows. I also passed the Holy Stone, a Dingle landmark – meet you at the Holy Stone. Nothing especially religiously holy about it. Good that there’s a hydrant nearby. Huh? Also saw a Féile na Bealtaine poster – that’s a festival happening this coming weekend. More on that later on. We have tickets to two events.

After lunch at home in the afternoon we drove over Conor Pass to Glanteenassig Forest Park for a walk in the woods. Wonderful mountain views of Carrignaspaniagh’ (or the Spaniards Rock). (It is said that Cucullane had taken away the wife of a Spaniard, whose husband pursued them to Tigh Cucullane, from which she took a walk with him to the top of this precipice and when there he seized her and flung himself and her into the Lake which is underneath.) Then the Lough Caum Loop is a bog bridge that encircles the lake and is bounded by Stradbally mountain, Beenoskee with Reamore hill also to be seen. The weather wasn’t perfect – it was overcast but dry after the sunny morning. After our walk we drove back to Dingle the other way. Yes, I am wearing glasses (for reading) in one picture. I was reading camera settings, and Elaine said I looked distinguished. Hhmmm? And she says the new blue Irish hat sets off my eyes. Hhmmmm? On the whole walk it was just us, the birds, the ducks, and the sheep. No one else around.

Dinner was at favorite restaurant number four – Out of the Blue. Fish only is served here and no fried food (thus no fish and chips). Great meal with a German pinot noir. Elaine had gambas (shrimp) for a starter and scallops for her main. I had panfried lemon sole (OMG good) for a starter and grilled monkfish for my main. They are described in detail on the photo below of the menu. I had apple tart for dessert while Elaine had rhubarb tart.

We stopped briefly at the Dingle Pub to see Richie and Dreams of Freedom. It was teeming with tourists. Then home to bed.

So we rested. The weather was nice. Lots of sun. We did venture into town for lunch at Flannery’s Fish Box. The fish and chips is hard to beat. It’s right across the street from St Mary’s where Elaine lit a candle and I snapped a camera picture.

We hung out at home most of the day. At 3:30 I went into town for a pint at the Dingle Pub. At 5:00 we had cocktails at home. I sat outside for a bit, but it’s chilly. I did take some good camera pics from the backyard (including a shadow picture) and a panorama video scanning the view we see everyday. You can hear the wind in the video.