We are on board Riviera and the internet is working (slowly). Posting pictures will be impossible. Way too slow! I’ll post a host of pics once we get to Miami or I get to an internet cafe on shore somewhere. Until then, text only.
Saturday morning we arose at the hotel in Barcelona to a beautiful sunny day. The morning was free, so we did a walkabout. Barcelona is truly a beautiful city.
At noon we checked out and took a taxi to the designated cruise terminal (there are three in Barcelona). No Oceania ship to be found. So we took another cab and found the right terminal. Boarding was a breeze, and we settled in at the pool bar while we waited the 30 minutes or so until our room was ready. Gregory from Jamaica will quickly become our go-to bartender! The ship is gorgeous. Some pictures will be forthcoming in future blog posts.
We had champagne in the room for sailing time (5:00 PM). We passed by many other cruise ships docked here and watched Windsong under sail as it left at the same time we did. Nice picture if I could upload it. Darn.
Then we adjourned to the Martini Bar for cocktails before dinner. Lo and behold, Gregory was on duty here now. Dinner was in the main dining room, and it was delicious. I’ll spare the details this time as there will be plenty of shipboard meals to describe in more detail.
It’s 7:00 AM now and we arrive shortly in Catagena for the day. More tomorrow.
Thursday night we ventured out to find a place for dinner. Our first try was the Gamma Brasserie right across from the hotel. We got seated, but they were clearly more interested in closing for the night than serving us. So we up and left. We wandered down Boulevard Diderot toward the place we ate at last night because we had noted a possibility for tonight, L’Arrosoir. Again we were seated and this time stayed on for a wonderful meal. Elaine enjoyed Red Kuri Squash Soup served in the squash shell for a starter while I had scrumptious roasted bone marrow served on the bone. Elaine’s main was salmon carpaccio and mine was goose breast with potatoes au gratin. We finished up with crème brulee for me and chocolate cake with Berthillion’s ice cream for Elaine. Naturally dinner was accompanied by an excellent bottle of French red wine.
Friday we were up at 5:00 AM to pack and walk down to the Gare de Lyon for our 7:15 AM TGV to Barcelona. We boarded and left dead on time. I started writing this entry as we left the station. It’s 7:35 AM now and still dark outside. We can just see the sun starting to rise in the east as we head southwest. Beautiful sunrise indeed!
After enjoying the bottle of wine we brought on board with some sandwiches purchased in the buffet car, we arrived in Barcelona Sants Station right on schedule at 1:47 PM, walked out the door of the station, and checked in 100 yards away at the Marriot AC Sants Hotel. AC is a European chain that Marriott bought. Great room. After settling in we went across the street and hopped on the hop-on hop-off (HOHO) bus. We picked the west route as we had the done the east on a previous trip. We didn’t do any hopping off-and-on, but just did the two-hour circuit. This trip isn’t about doing Barcelona in depth.
Pictures From the Top of the HOHO Bus. Click to Enlanrge!
Elaine on the HOHO BusBarcelona Palm Trees (For Jane)Casa Batllo (A Gaudi Classic)More Magnificent Barcelona BuildingsInteresting StatueNice FacadeThe Head of La RamblaThe Columbus ColumnThe National Museum of Art of CatalunyaAnother Impressive Statue
After disembarking the bus at Sants Station, we went into the station to find an ATM as I needed a Euro infusion. Mission accomplished. I also found an FC Barcelona Football Club store and bought a hat to replace my aging and dirty Barcelona cap purchased years ago. And we decided to eat in tonight, so at various stores we purchased water, wine, diet coke, nuts, ham and brie sandwiches, cookies, and chips. So, sorry, no tales of fine dining tonight.
Tomorrow at noon we board the good ship Riviera (Oceania Cruise Lines). Only time will tell if shipboard satellite internet is good enough for more postings. Until I can get on again, I will sign off for now.
AS USUAL, CLICK ON PHOTOS TO OPEN LARGER IMAGE IN NEW WINDOW OR TAB
First off, dinner at L’Aubergeade last night was a triumph. Elaine had foie gras salade, followed by coquilles st jacques (scallops) with creamy cheesy risotto, followed by a molten chocolate cake. I had fried whole anchovies with aioli, followed by delicious steak tartare (for you raw beef fans) and frites, followed by French brie de melun. A total treat in a neighborhood bistro filled with locals, most of them regulars. The staff and ambiance were great, and a good time was had by all.
L’Aubergeade at NightGare de Lyon at NightParis Street Light
Thursday weather was predicted to be like Wednesday – cloudy morning followed by a sunny afternoon. The meteorologists were on target again.
DOWNER: We walked to Gare d’Austerlitz and took the RER to the Eiffel Tower. Elaine had never been up due to her fear of heights. Having worked to combat the fear with some success, she was determined to go the top on this trip. We had pre-booked entry tickets for 10:30. At 10:30, no elevator. At 10:45, no elevator. At 11:00 no elevator as the line grew longer and longer. No info provided. Finally I asked. “Ah, it is broken”. When will it be fixed? “No idea”. We waited a few more minutes as people started abandoning the line. We gave up at 11:15. (Getting a refund on my on-line purchase will be possible only by sending an official form to the company and wait for a response. Hah!) So basically, c’est La France; c’est normale!
La Tour EiffelNo Summit for You!From a Distance
UPPER: We trekked by foot to the Arc de Triomphe and then decided to head to the Grand Palais where there a three day exhibition of photography (Paris Photo) from famous photographers all over the world. 30 euro to get in and a long line. Ugh. We braved the line (which moved quickly) and paid our fees. The exhibition was HUGE. It was worth the money and the wait. There were exhibits by photographers from everywhere including Robert Mapplethorpe and Annie Leibovitz. We wandered around for quite awhile enjoying the exhibits and stopped for a quick lunch inside: ham & cheese sandwich (on delicious French bread!) and chips .
Elaine at the ArcSome Weird Photos at the ExhibitMapplethorpeBy MapplethorpeInside the Grand PalaisA Photo of a PhotoLooking Up as the Tricolor Flies AboveLooks Real, Eh?The Four SistersReal People at the Exhibit – Really!
Then it was back on the metro back to our hotel for a well deserved nap. Dinner tonight will be on the fly in the neighborhood with a report tomorrow. Our train to Barcelona leaves at 7:15 AM, so we’ll be early risers.
Dinner last night at the Parcel Yard Pub was just fine. Elaine had Artichoke Soup followed by Chicken, Ham, & Leek Pie.. For me, Pork Terrine with Rhubarb Compote followed by Steak and London Pride Pie. All yummy. We tucked in quickly after dinner.
Just minutes after checking out of the Great Northern Hotel we were across the street in St Pancras International Station to board the 10:25 AM Eurostar for the trip to Paris. Back in 2008 we took the Eurostar, now celebrating its 25th birthday, through the Channel Tunnel (Chunnel) from St Pancras to Brussels. The train is ultra modern and very nice. The trip through the tunnel sounds exciting but is, in fact, pretty boring — for twenty minutes or so you can’t see anything while in the tunnel.. On Eurostar, so they say, everything is first class, so the various seating options are standard, standard premier, and business premier. With our standard premier tickets, we were served a continental breakfast that was pretty mundane but tasty none the less. The ride was nice, and the train was spot on time arriving at Gare du Nord at 1:47. With the hour time change, it’s only two hours and twenty minutes to Paris.
It was cloudy and rainy when we left London, but it was a beautiful sunny afternoon in Paris. On arrival we used our pre-purchased Paris Visite Metro passes to ride the two stops on the RER train from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, the station where will board the TGV to Barcelona on Friday morning. We checked in at the Mercure Hotel Gare de Lyon located right at the station.
Once settled in the room, we went for a walkabout along the Seine and then stopped at La Verre a Vin for glasses of French red from the Rhone. Delicious. Back at the hotel I called l’Aubergeade to reserve a table at 7:30 PM. It’s about a 20 minute walk and gets rave reviews on TripAdvisior. Reports on the restaurant in tomorrow’s blog.
Notre Dame from Austerlitz BridgeOur Hotel and the Clock Tower at Gare de LyonParis Street SceneJoe at La Verre a Vin
We arrived at London Heathrow aboard Virgin Atlantic on-time at 9:25 AM. Since we just here in July, it seems a bit of deja vu. After clearing immigration and collecting our luggage, we searched for and quickly located our driver for the ride into town. He took us directly to our hotel, the Great Northern Hotel which is located directly across the street from St Pancras (and Kings Cross) Station. Despite being early, our room was ready, so we freshened up before heading out on the town.
We first went to see Blood Swept Lands And Seas Of Red by ceramic artist Paul Cummins at the Tower of London. One ceramic poppy has been “planted” for each British war death during World War I – a total of 888,246 poppies in all. We visited the sight in progress back in late July when we were here for our last trip. It was quite impressive then and even more so now. The first ceramic poppy was planted on July 17th. The last day to view the completed site is today, November 11th, variously noted as Armistice Day and Remembrance Day in the UK and as Veteran’s Day in the USA. Tomorrow the dismantling of the display will begin. Each of the poppies will then be delivered to its buyer. All the poppies have been sold to raise money for six charities providing support to service personnel, veterans and their families. The British government has waived collection of VAT on the sales, a gesture that will increase the amount to be received by the charities by more than £1.1 million.
CLICK ON PICS FOR LARGER VERSION IN NEW TAB OR WINDOW
Lots of People for the Last Day
Crowds Line the Tower All Way Round
Beefeaters at the TowerEntrance to the Tower
One of the best web sites for other pictures of the exhibition is here.
Then it was lunch at the nearby Hung, Drawn and Quartered Pub. Nothing like a good pie and a pint of beer for lunch for weary travelers. And we had a nice chat with a Brit who was enjoyed a glass of wine (or two).
Inside the Hung, Drawn & QuarteredElaine Enjoys a Pint
Then we returned to our room at the Great Northern. Dinner tonight will be at nearby Kings Cross Railway Station in the Parcel Yard Pub located right within the station. It gets good reviews. See our review tomorrow.
In no time we will be in London for one night en route to Paris, Barcelona, a cruise to Miami, and some time in Lauderdale-by-the-Sea. We may go see the Poppies again in London on their last day. Read story here. But maybe not if the crowds are going to be as huge as expected.
The blog will kick off on Tuesday, November 11th. That’s our only night in London before boarding the Eurostar for the train journey through the Chunnel to Paris. Check back starting Tuesday.
A word of warning. Blog posts may be short to non-existent (and with few if any pictures) while we are aboard ship. Maritime internet (provided via satellite) is notoriously expensive and unreliable (even to the point of not working at all).
I promised some videos. I am not uploading them to the blog, but here are the links and some explanations.
David Geaney is a five time world champion Irish dancer. See story here. He danced at his father’s pub, the Dingle Pub, and we were in the first row. I took two videos. One short and one long. The short one is of him and a friend dancing. David is in the white shirt. The long video is really pretty good and worth watching (imho). The problem with these two videos is that I created them in portrait mode. Video players (VLC, Windows Media Player, Quick Time) all play them in landscape mode, so you have to turn your head or the computer sideways to enjoy them. Stupid, but true. So I converted the videos so they would play properly. BUT the blog software thinks the files are corrupt and won’t play them. SO, do this:
RIGHT CLICK on the files and then click “Save link as”. Save them to your desktop or to a directory. Then double click them from there. They should play properly in Windows Media Player, Quick Time, or VLC. After watching, you can delete the files.
Breakfast at Bow River House was lovely, and we had a nice chat with Roma, the delightful hostess, who is originally from Australia. (There was Vegemite on the table, a dead giveaway for that.) Then we were off for the hour ride to Heathrow.
We had an hour to kill before turning in the car, so we stopped briefly in Windsor and a walk about. After parking the car, we walked over the Thames and spent our hour strolling in Eton which has a beautiful main street. The most interesting building looks like a church but is actually the Eton College Sanitorium.
The Thames in Windsor/etonA View Down (Up?) RiverMain Street EtonOld Building in EtonAn Eton Pub (too early to try)Eton College SanitoriumThe Sanatorium AgainWindsor Castle Peaks Above Windsor Town
Back in the car, we drove to the Renault representative near Heathrow Terminal One and said goodbye to our Megane, remarkably unscratched and still looking like new save for a bit of UK grime. Our driver from Heathrow to Gatwick was spot on time, and we were checked in at the Courtyard Marriott by 2 PM. Elaine had wine, I had a Guinness, and we shared a cheese plate for lunch. Dinner at the restaurant in the hotel was decent enough, and we were back in the room to see a new episode of Downton Abbey at 9:00 PM. (The new season has already begun here).
Our flight is at 11:35 AM tomorrow morning, arriving in Las Vegas at 1:15 PM. We will stay the night in Henderson and be home by noon on Tuesday.
We haven’t been in England since we left Liverpool four weeks ago, but now we are back. The drive from Kiln House in Llanstadwell to Newbury is about four hours. The drive was easy and mostly motorway. Then we diverted off the M4 approaching Newbury to find White Horse Hill, a National Trust site, mainly as a spot for our picnic lunch. We found it, but it wasn’t easy.
The chalk white horse on the hill is 4,000 years old. Actually to get a good perspective of it, you would have to be in a hot air balloon or a low flying aircraft. But it was a pleasant spot for lunch and a walk to stretch the legs.
National Trust Image of White Horse from AboveWe Didn’t Walk on ItThe Chalk Horse and the British MidlandsSheep on the Path
Leaving the site we passed through the town of Lambourn in England’s race horse country. I have read about Lambourn for years in Dick (and now Felix) Francis novels. Now having seen it, I can picture it even better.
Then we drove to the outskirts of Newbury for a planned look at Sandham Memorial Chapel (another National Trust administered site just recently reopened to the public), an artistic memorial to WWI as created by Stanley Spencer. He was a highly regarded British artist who fought at a long forgotten WWI front at Salonika in then Macedonia, now Greece. The paintings took six years to complete in all, and are considered by many to be the artist’s finest achievement, drawing such praise as ‘Britain’s answer to the Sistine Chapel’. Pictures inside are not allowed. The picture below is from a BBC web site about the reopening of the chapel.
Sandham Memorial Chapel (source: BBC)Sandham Memorial ChapelAgain
Outside is a sculpture, “Blown Away”, also affectionately known as “Sydney” after Stanley’s brother who was killed in WWI. It was created by Sioban Coppinger. Blown Away pays homage to so many brave people whose lives are altered by their time and expresses what many of us feel about memory and the passing of time.
Blown Away
Almost next door to Sandham Chapel is Highclere Castle, the site where Downton Abbey is filmed. To tour the castle you need to book 12-18 ahead. We had hoped to at least get a glimpse of the castle from the grounds, but it is totally closed this month for filming by the BBC.
Then we found our B&B, Bow River House, in Leckhampstead, Newbury. This is truly rural and is a working horse farm where three-day eventers are raised and trained. We are the only guests tonight in a delightful bucolic setting.
Bow River HouseSuzanne Tends the HorsesThe PaddockTea and Biscuits on the PatioEnjoying the Tea (What, No Beer?)
Dinner was a few miles down the road at the Fox at Peasemore. We started with a shared baked Camembert with cranberry sauce. Then Elaine enjoyed here fresh cod while I had a perfectly rare and delicious beef Wellington. Sorbets and a tarte au citron for perfect for dessert.
With the good weather we visited purportedly the most beautiful beach in wales at Barafundle Bay – you decide. And we stopped at the Walled Garden and the Lily Ponds nearby. A quick beer at the Ferry Inn. Dinner at home. We had a nice chat with our landlord (and next door neighbor) Carol. All’s right with the world. Back tomorrow with a special stop near Newbury, England.
Barafundle BeachAgainAwwwwShadows at BarafundleA Last LookThe Walled GardenSue’s Head? (Only My Sister Would Understand)PrettyLunch: Scone with Clotted Cream and JamThe Lily PondOnce MoreAt the Ferry InnCask Ale Under the Toll Bridge