Day Five – Packwood House, Compton Verney, and a Dining Triumph

Day five in the UK – an unbelievable (for the UK) fifth straight day of sunny skies.  This morning we headed north once again for a visit to Packwood House, yet another National Trust property, about thirty minutes away from Chipping Campden.  On the way we passed right through Stratford-upon-Avon where we will be returning later this week.

Packwood House is a 15th century timber-framed Tudor mansion noted especially for its garden of Yew trees.  It was acquired early in the 1902 by the Ash family for their then 16-year-old son Graham Baron Ash (Baron being a name, not a title).  As he got into to 20’s he made it a project to make it a very livable home.  He was quite the gentleman, and in WWI he piloted reconnaissance balloons over enemy territory.

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Packwood House

 

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The Entry

 

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Long Single Plank Table

 

 

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Bath with a View

 

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Beautiful Windows

The famous Yew Garden containing over 100 trees was laid out in the mid-17th century by John Fetherston, the lawyer. The clipped yews are supposed to represent “The Sermon on the Mount”. Twelve great yews are known as the “Apostles” and the four big specimens in the middle are ‘The Evangelists’. A tight spiral path lined with box hedges climbs a hummock named “The Mount”. The single yew that crowns the summit is known as “The Master”. The smaller yew trees are called “The Multitude” and were planted in the 19th century to replace an orchard.  (End of Yew tree lesson)

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The Yew Garden

 

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Looking Back at Packwood House

 

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The Yews Close Up

 

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Big Trees, Little Elaine

Then we enjoyed our modest picnic lunch before heading back toward Campden for a stop at the Compton Verney Art Gallery and Park.  It is noted for a Naples collection, a British folk art collection, and a brilliant Chinese collection of food, wine and ritual vessels.  But the highlight was the temporary “Shakespeare in Art” exhibition, a good prelude to our planned Thursday return to Stratford-upon-Avon for an afternoon performance of a Shakespeare play.  No pictures allowed in the museum, but the link above will take you to their web site where you can the collections.

Then it was back to Campton Mews for a rest before our 7:00 PM dinner reservation at the Chef’s Dozen.  Elaine had scoped out this place which promised to be the dining highlight of the entire trip.  It was!  Owned and operated by a South African couple, the Chef’s Dozen offers a four course set price menu that we enjoyed with a bottle of Côtes du Rhône red wine after cocktails – delicious champagne for Elaine and a Sipsmith gin and tonic for me.

The meal:

First course:
Elaine:  hand-dived Orkney scallop – scallop broth
Joe:  rabbit raviolo – cooked and served in its own consomme

Second Course:
Elaine and Joe:  crisp lamb sweetbread – duck egg, watercress, anchovy mayonnaise and caviar

Third Course:
Elaine:  Halibut  – wild garlic, bone marrow sauce, braised snails, Jersey Royal bits and bobs
Joe:  Fallow buck – broccoli, ripe pear, toasted almond and Oxford Blue

Fourth Course:
Elaine:  ‘rhubarb and custard’ – duck egg custard, rosemary and Arlette pastry
Joe:  dark chocolate – toasted hazelnut, beer caramel and hazelnut ice cream

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An Amuse Bouche

 

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Good Wine!

 

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Sweetbreads

 

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Fallow Buck

 

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Halibut

 

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Palate Clearing Blood Orange Sorbet

 

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Rhubarb and Custard

 

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Dark Chocolate (OMG GOOD)

 

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The Bill (Price Appropriately Hidden to Prevent Heart Attack)

Then bed!  Cheers until tomorrow.

Day Four – National Trust Day

The National Trust (NT) is a charity founded in 1895 by three people who saw the importance of the UK’s heritage and open spaces and wanted to preserve them for everyone to enjoy.  We belong to its American partner, the Royal Oak Society. which gives us full access to all National Trust properties in the UK and Northern Ireland.  Today we visited two National Trust properties under, against all odds, partly cloudy skies.  Our good luck with weather cannot last forever.

After a good night’s sleep we headed out at about 9:30 AM for Charlecote Park, about 18 miles north of Chipping Campden.  We arrived in good order a few minutes before the grounds opened and, in fact, we were the first people to enter the park.  Charlecote Park is a grand 16th century country house, surrounded by its own deer park, on the banks of the River Avon.  The Lucy family has owned the land since 1257 and it remains the family home today.  Although acquired by the National Trust for financial reasons, the family has a right to live in the house in perpetuity.

We explored the park and gardens for a bit and saw the deer still residing on the ground.  Then we visited the kitchens and finally did a self guided tour of the house.  Each room in the house has a friendly and communicative docent that explains interesting facts about the room.  All in all, it is very well done.

Pictures tell the story (Click to enlarge)

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Charlcote Park Manor House

 

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Beautiful Wisteria

 

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A Very Old Yew Tree

 

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Cute Cottage on the Grounds

 

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Deer Enjoying the Nice Weather

 

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Rare Lobster Claw Tree (Heliconia)

 

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My Scullery Maid at Work

 

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Calling Bells – Think Downton Abbey

 

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The Main Hall

 

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Rare Shakespeare Early Edition – Pride of House

 

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Billiards Anyone?

Then it was another five minute drive to the next NT property, Baddesley Clinton.  This was the home of the Ferrers family for 500 years.  They were a prominent Catholic family noted for sheltering Catholic priests during the Reformation, and the house has several “priest holes” where the priests, who under the threat of a death sentence, could hide during raids by the priest hunters.  After our picnic lunch on the grounds, we toured the beautiful house before heading back home to Chipping Campden.

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A Duck Awaits Lunch Under our Picnic Table

 

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More Wisteria

 

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I Love this Room

 

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The Ferrers Coat of Arms

 

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Looking Out the Window

 

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From the Estate Grounds

We stopped in the Red Lion Pub for beers and had an interesting chat with the very young female bartender.  There isn’t much we don’t know about her (except her name).  She’s a native of Campden.  Her grandmother has nine cats and lives in an unheated old airport control tower.  She has a girl friend.  She used to work at King’s Hotel but didn’t like it.  She cannot abide the Donald or Hillary but she adores Bernie.  Needless to say, it wasn’t busy, and she talked the whole time through two pints of IPA.  God bless her.

Dinner was the Eight Bells Pub, and it was quite delicious.  No pictures, sorry.

Joe: Smoked Mackerel & Horseradish Pate with granary toast and a small salad, Homemade Cod & Salmon Fishcakes with dill butter sauce and seasonal vegetables, and a delicious duo of Ice Creams – Vanilla and Chocolate – served in a brandy snap basket.

Elaine: Field Mushrooms pan fried and finished with a Stilton cream sauce, served on toasted ciabatta, Local Asparagus, Spinach & Sun-dried Tomato Risotto topped with crispy fried rocket and Parmesan shavings, and Lemon Posset with raspberry coulis and homemade shortbread.

Until tomorrow.

Day Three – Planes (Sort of) and Plants and Happy Birthday to Elaine

Weather wise, Sunday was about perfect.  Cool, sunny, and bright.  Cloudless skies gave way to big fluffy white clouds by afternoon.  Elaine made me my desired breakfast of a slice of toast with a fried egg on top.  The landlord had provided eggs from her own chickens.  That and a cup of tea hit the spot.  Also in the morning, Elaine made ham and cheese sandwiches to take along in the car for a picnic somewhere during the day.

Our first stop of the day was at the Wellington Aviation Museum in little Moreton-in-Marsh, about 15 minutes away.  It is an eclectic little place that is only open on Sundays.  As we knew in advance, no planes here (except a few models)!  In fact, it’s a one room affair that is filled to overflowing with Gerry Tyack’s collection of WWII airplane memorabilia – mostly odd parts from vintage aircraft and interesting photos from the nearby RAF Moreton in-Marsh Air Base, a WWII hub of activity.  Poor Gerry passed away a few years back at 90, but volunteers continue to keep the museum open on Sundays.  The “curator” was a treat and impressed that we had come all the way from Arizona.  He was full of interesting facts.

DON’T FORGET – CLICK ON PICS TO ENLARGE IN A NEW TAB OR WINDOW

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Elaine & Vic the Volvo at Wellington Aviation Museum

 

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Elaine Examines the Exhibits

 

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Pilot’s Chair

 

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The Only Planes at the Museum

Next stop would be Hidcote Gardens, one of England’s best gardens and run  by the National Trust (NT).  We are NT members, so we get free admission and free parking.  Because of its popularity, I had planned this for during the week rather than on a Sunday, but the weather was perfect for outdoor time so we moved it up to today on the sightseeing list.  The gardens are quite beautiful and filled with blooming flowers.  As expected, it was filled was Brits (who love their flowers).  Lots of kids, so not very peaceful, but enjoyable none the less.  At the end of our walk through the gardens, we picnicked at the car (since I was starving and unwilling to search out a picnic spot).

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Pretty

 

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Elaine at Hidcote

 

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Tomorrow’s Dinner?

 

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At Hidcote

 

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Clever Trimming

 

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Neigh

 

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Up Close

Just a few miles away from Hidcote stands Kiftsgate Court Gardens, quite well known in its own right.  It even has its own rose, the Kiftsgate rose.  Sure doesn’t look like a rose!  This place is not nearly as well known as Hidcote, so it was pleasantly quiet and peaceful.  It too is quite beautiful, and Elaine picked it as her favorite of the two gardens of the day.

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At Kiftsgate Court

 

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Lots of Blooms

 

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Sculpture in the Garden

 

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Clouds Refecting the Pool

 

Kiftsgate Rose

 

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Don’t Ask

Then it was back to Campden Mews for a nap (for me) and then cocktails before heading out to dinner at the Ebrington Arms Pub just a few miles down the road.  The pub dates back to early 1600’s before I was born.  Dinner was very good accompanied by a bottle of Vacqueyras red wine from France, a region I had never heard of.  It was great.  Dinner:

Elaine: Squash soup, pork roast, and strawberry rhubarb trifle.

Joe: Scotch egg, prime rib with Yorkshire pudding, and a cheese plate.

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Joe’s Main

 

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Elaine’s Main

 

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The Cheese Board

 

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Re-purposed Phone Booth

Until tomorrow, here are a few shots of Chipping Campden!

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Chipping Campden Town Square

 

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The Old Market

 

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The Church

 

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Our Home

DAY TWO – Hampton Court and the Drive to Chipping Campden

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The First UK Beer

With the Renault debacle behind us, we looked forward to a good day two in the UK.  The weather so far is cooperating fully.  The week before we arrived was warm and rain, rain, and more rain.  For us yesterday was beautiful, weather-wise, that is, and today turned out just as good.

We checked out of the Oakwood House B&B in West Drayton after a nice breakfast and a chat with the owners, an interesting couple, and two guests from Australia.  We did indeed head back to Hampton Court Palace, about 30 minutes away.  Aside from a normal traffic glitch for some construction, we arrived at the Palace at 9:45 AM, just 15 minutes from the opening time.  Got a prime space, and we were among the first to enter the grounds.

We visited here way back in mid 1980’s before the devastating fire in the William III apartments in 1986.  That is long forgotten as the Queen reopened the site in 1992.  Hampton Court Palace – you history buffs think Edward VIII, William III, Anne Boleyn, Jane Seymour, et al.  If you are up on your BBC history shows, it will all sound familiar.  The apartments are very nice; the gardens are beautiful and in full bloom.  All-in-all, well worth the revisit.  We concluded the visit at about noon with cups of hot chocolate and a shared piece of Elizabeth cake in the café (that sufficed as lunch), and then it was back to Vic, the Volvo, for the ride to Chipping Campden.

The ride was just over two hours made slightly longer by motorway construction around Oxford.  Chipping Campden is a lovely town, and our cottage, Campden Mews, is dead in the center on the High Street (Britain’s answer to Main Street) but behind a gate and surrounded by stone walls, shrubs, and trees.  One minute to the bustling street but a sea of tranquility.  Our house, Campden Mews, is beautiful.  Full kitchen (but with a small fridge), dining area, and a large sitting room with TV on the ground floor and two large bedrooms with en suite baths on the second plus a delightfully secluded yard.  We had drinks in the yard – it was cool but sunny and very nice in the sun.

On the way to Chipping Campden, henceforce to be referred to as Campden, we had stopped off in Stow-on-the-Wold to visit their Tesco Superstore. We stocked up on water, cranberry juice, vodka, wine, and household essentials including some Spanish chicken with roasted potatoes for tonight’s dinner.

Today’s issues were two:  figuring out how to operate the gas stove and oven, and, more ominously, dealing with an electrical outage that happened soon after we arrived.  Shoshana, the landlord, dispatched her husband James to deal with the electricals, but I had figured how to reset the circuits before he even arrived.  The wi-fi is excellent!

Dinner and wine was great, and it was nice not having to deal with a restaurant meal on our first night in Campden.  The king-size bed is comfortable, and a good night’s sleep was had by all.  It is now Sunday morning and the weather looks excellent once again.  We will probably visit a famous nearby garden and a quirky air museum near here today, but more on all that tomorrow.

CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE IN A NEW TAB/WINDOW

 

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The Entrance – Hampton Court Palace

 

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Did He Have a Bad Night?

 

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Joe’s New Buddy

 

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The Main Hall

 

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Lots of Antlers Here

 

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Instructions for Dinner Guests

 

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Our B&B Bedroom – NOT!

 

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The Gardens

 

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Another View

 

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See Elaine on the Stairs

 

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Lots of Arms

 

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The Stool Room (Really!)

 

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Joe at the Half Door

 

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The Dining Room

 

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The Master

 

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In the Yard

DAY ONE DISASTER

After a brief stop in Boston where I joined Elaine at a reunion of the participants of her recent Vietnam adventure (pictures below), we arrived in London early Friday morning.  First job, of course, was to pick up our new Renault Megane Estate.  Little did we know that we were about to match and exceed the car rental woes of our trip to Florida last Thanksgiving.

Renault hires an agency at Heathrow to act as their agents in delivering and returning cars to customers.  We have dealt with them numerous times, and the father/son team is (are?) very nice.  Alas, the gasoline automatic transmission Megane that Renault delivered for me was rather a diesel manual transmission model.  Oh, oh!!  I drove a standard transmission car in driving school back in 1958 and have not been in one since then.  And now I am going to drive one for 32 days in the UK/IE on the wrong side of the road?  I don’t think so.  Naturally I refused delivery.

The agents tried to deal with Renault, but the buck passing between different divisions within Renault resulted in four hours of angst ridden waiting.  Finally they offered a seven-to-ten day rental after which they would deliver a new Renault to me.  Not bloody good enough!  I had no confidence that they would deliver it in a timely fashion.  I told Pierre, the Renault agent in France, that Renault had not delivered as promised and that I wanted a full refund.  He agreed and said he would arrange it.  I expect a hassle.

Meanwhile the father/son agents proposed a solution (independent from any connection with Renault).  They would rent me a similarly sized Volvo with an automatic transmission for the same price quoted me for the Renault.  I sense this was a good deal for them, but it was a good deal for us too.  A Volvo is a step up from a Renault, the car had only 6,000 miles on it, and the vacation would proceed immediately without worrying about changing out to another car at some point.  The deal was struck!

By this time it was too late for our planned time-killing sight-seeing trip to Hampton Court Palace but yet a bit too early to proceed to our nearby B&B for check-in.  We drove to the B&B (the GPS, or as the Brits refer it, the SatNav) got us there in good stead, and we enjoyed a beer or two at the pub next store.  At four PM, much the worse for wear, we checked in to the Oakwood B&B, settled in, and took naps.  Having enjoyed Vietnam food at the “reunion”, hefty snacks the airport waiting for the Virgin flight, and a full dinner and a breakfast on-board the six hour flight, Elaine wasn’t hungry come dinner time at 7 PM, so I ventured on foot down the street for fish and chips (excellent!) for myself.  I stopped at a little variety store and bought some waters for the room.  We were in bed and asleep by 8:30 PM.

After a good night’s rest (it is 6 AM Saturday now) we have put yesterday’s stressful experience behind us and will begin the vacation anew.  After breakfast, I think we will proceed to visit Hampton Court Palace after all (I do have pre-purchased admission tickets – why waste them!).  After a short visit there we will embark on the two hour (or so) ride to our first cottage rental in Chipping Campden.  More on that tomorrow with the first UK pictures.

Until then, here are the pictures of Elaine’s Vietnam reunion with our friend Mianne, the Lees, and the infamous Savin Hill girls.  Also present but not pictured were me, Mianne’s husband Bill, and Joe & Fran Murphy who had been scheduled to be on the trip but had to cancel.

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Elaine Sandwiched by Caitlin and Erin

 

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Left to right, Caitlin, Erin, Elaine, Joe, Mianne, & Nancy

One Month to Go

One month to take off!  We leave on May 11th for our 2016 UK/Ireland adventure.

Here’s a map followed by a description of the trip:

UK-IE 2016 MAP1
Our Itinerary (Click to Enlarge)

Day 1: We land at Heathrow, pick up our brand new 2016 Renault Megane Estate, and stay overnight at the Oakwood B&B in West Drayton near Heathrow Airport.  Since we arrive in the UK to early to check in, we will visit Hampton Court Palace, a short drive away.

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2016 Renault Megane Estate

Days 2 through 8:  We will be staying in a self catering cottage (Campden Mews) in the town of Chipping Campden in the Cotswolds.  That will be our base for exploring the Cotswolds, an area that we have not visited before.  We will also be taking a performance of Shakespeare’s rarely performed Cymbeline at the Royal Shakespeare Company in Stratford-upon-Avon, just a short ride from Chipping Campden..

Day 9:  This will be a driving day.  It’s about 3.5 hours from Chipping Campden to Pembroke Dock in Wales.  We’ll have to leave early because we have reservations on the 1:45 PM Isle of Inishmere ferry from Pembroke to Rosslare in the Republic of Ireland.  We have been to Rosslare several times, usually as a stopover prior to taking the ferry the other way.  We will stay at Archways, one of our favorite B&B’s, and enjoy a meal cooked by the owner/chef.

Days 10 through 15:  We’ll leave Archways after breakfast for the four hour drive to Dingle in County Kerry, our Irish home where once again we will stay in Greenmount Cottage.  Dingle is our Irish “home”, so there won’t be a lot new here.  We will walk the beaches, enjoy our favorite restaurants (especially the Chart House – no connection or resemblance to the US chain), drink some Guinness with Tom Geaney at his Dingle Pub, and listen to Mr. O’Flaherty belt out some Irish tunes at O’Flaherty’s.

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Joe & Tom Geaney at the Dingle Pub

Days 16 through 19:  A 3.5 hour drive from Dingle will take us to Galway, a spot we visited only briefly back when we were both working stiffs..  We’ll be staying just steps from Galway Bay at the Marless House B&B in the Salthill section of Galway.  No specific plans are on tap, but a day trip to the Aran Islands is a distinct possibility.  Despite many visits to the Emerald Isle we have never made it to the Arans.

Day 20:  It’s just about a two hour drive from Galway to Dublin where we will spend the night at the oft-frequented Croke Park Hotel.  Before checking in we will check out the new Epic Ireland exhibition that opens for the first time this month.

Day 21: We’ll be up early to catch Irish Ferries’ Dublin Swift to Holyhead (Wales) at 8:45.  After two hours on the ferry and two hours in the car, we will briefly revisit Liverpool and stay the night at the Nadler Liverpool.  Dinner, perhaps, at Lunya for tapas and wine.

Days 22 through 28:  A four drive from Liverpool will get us to Craster in the Northumberland area of the UK.  This will be virgin ground for us, and I think we’ll enjoy our seven nights in the self-catering Craster Rocks overlooking the North Sea.  We’ll explore the area, perhaps seeing Hadrian’s Wall, and definitely taking a bird watching boat trip to the Farne Islands.

Days 29-30:  After a rather boring five hour drive on the motorway we will arrive in  Cambridge for our first ever visit.  We should have the afternoon and the next day explore this university town while staying at Sayle House B&B.

Day 31:  It’s about 2.5 hours from Cambridge to Windsor, our final stop in the UK, where we will stay with Julia at her 76 Duke Street B&B.

Day 32:  Turn in the car and catch Virgin Atlantic’s flight to Boston where we will change to American Airlines for the onward flight to Phoenix.

Elaine’s Exciting Vietnam Adventure

At the end of February Elaine traveled with our good friend Mianne to Vietnam for an adventure.  Here is her report complete with pictures.

CLICK PICTURES TO ENLARGE IN NEW TAB/WINDOW
(don’t forget, last reminder)

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM!!!

On Sunday, February 28th, my travel companion and good friend, Mianne Hanley, and I left Phoenix for a grand adventure. We arrived at LAX (Los Angeles) early evening and checked into our hotel. We met Joe and Nancy Lee from South Boston, who had arranged the trip. The Lees are old teaching friends of Mianne’s. We had a nice meet and greet dinner and then returned to our respective hotels for the night.

On Monday, the 29th, we boarded Korean Airlines for a flight to Seoul, South Korea where we changed planes for the flight to Ho Chi Min City (HCMC) (which most people still refer to as Saigon). After crossing the international date line,, we arrived in HCMC on March 1st at approximately midnight and then boarded our bus to our hotel. By the time we checked in (no computers) we finally got to bed around 2 AM on the 2nd. We had an early morning wake up call and a group meeting with our tour guide, Trinh Huy Tho, at 8 AM.

March 2nd we did a tour of HCMC which included a visit to Notre Dame Cathedral and then on to the Central Post Office. The Post Office is just a magnificent French influenced building. The wooden phone booths, which are still working, were beautiful. The post office was bustling with tourists, school children and locals trying to conduct business. The outside was filled with peddlers of all kinds.

Trying to cross a street in Saigon takes a certain skill. Saigon has 8.2 million residents and 5.8 million motorbikes and scooters. You hear nothing but the horns of the scooters and bikes wherever you go. There is not much traffic control here. We saw families with babies riding between the mother and father on one scooter. Sometimes we saw 4 people riding on one scooter. There were a few crosswalks where the scooters do slow down if they see people trying to cross, but, then again, some will just scoot around you. We also saw the Opera House and City Hall, both beautiful structures. We visited a lacquer workshop and watched artisans at work. The inlay on various objects was with abalone, duck eggs and other assorted woods. It requires great skill and in the USA OSHA would certainly close this down – there were no masks being worn, no safety glasses or anything else. It’s amazing the conditions they work in.

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Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City)

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Notre Dame Cathedral

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Saigon Post Office

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Post Office Interior

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Phone Booths in Post Office

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Saigon Street Life

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Outside American Embassy

Then we visited the Ben Thanh Market. It is overwhelming. Everything is sold here. Stall after stall after stall of clothing, flowers, food, meat, shoes – anything one needs. It’s a paradise for bargain hunters!

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Ben Thanh Market Photos (above)

Around noon we returned to the hotel. Joe, Nancy, Mianne and I walked around the neighborhood stopping at Pho 24 for what else but pho. Pho is a Vietnamese noodle soup served with beef or chicken. You are given a plate of herbs to add to the soup as you desire. It is eaten anytime of day by the Vietnamese. We then hit an exchange house and got some Vietnamese dong (currency). [One US$ = 22,290 dong]

It was nap time for most, but I decided to walk around a bit more. I went up to Revolution Square and walked down the large pedestrian mall to the riverbank. The fountains were running, and people were outside enjoying lunch, the water fountains and people watching.

The four of us met again after everyone got some well deserved rest, and we headed out to the Rex Hotel for cocktails before dinner. The Rex was made famous during the Vietnam War when it hosted the American military command’s daily conference, derisively named “Five O’Clock Follies” by cynical journalists who found the optimism of the American officers to be misguided. The rooftop bar at the Rex was a well-known hangout for military officials and war correspondents. The view of the city at night is spectacular. We then headed to Lemongrass for a fantastic dinner enjoyed by all, and then it was time for bed.

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A Saigon Skyscraper

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A Cocktail at the Rex

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Revolution Square (Rex Hotel on Left)

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The Rex Hotel

On March 3 we flew to Da Nang where we boarded a bus heading to Hoi An, one of Vietnam’s most picturesque towns. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. No motorized vehicles are allowed in the old section. There is a mix of Japanese, Chinese, Vietnamese and French architecture. Then there are the lanterns – at night the town basks in the warm glow of lanterns lining the streets, hanging from trees and store fronts. It is a wonderful sight. Hoi An is situated on the Thu Bon River and was once a major trading port.

There are endless rows of tailors in Hoi An who make made-to-order clothes in 24 hours. This was Mianne’s first stop for clothes. After Mianne being measured, picking out fabric, deciding on which neckline, and deciding on how long the sleeves should be, we headed to meet the group for dinner at a lovely restaurant on the river.

The following day we headed to An Bang Beach after Mianne’s second fitting at another tailor. The beach was gorgeous. However, the South China Sea was a bit too cold for us to swim in, the surf was quite heavy, and we were warned about an undertow. So, we just soaked up some sun and then headed back to the hotel for our 3:00 PM Eco tour.

HOI AN PICTURES:

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We boarded the Jack Trans Eco Tour boat for a leisurely ride where we learned about fishing and even tried our hand at making rings and headdresses from river reeds. A few of us tried our hand at paddling the basket boats. We ended our eco tour on the back of a water buffalo. It was a fun way to spend an afternoon. After cleaning up a bit and enjoying wine by the pool we headed to the “new” Hoi An. This area is right across the bridge from the old area. Here we had a most memorable meal at Cava. It was a fantastic end to a really great day.

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Greeting Cards (available everywhere)

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Tho, Our Tour Guide (on left)

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At An Bang Beach

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An Bang Beach

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Round Boat Ride

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Our Friends on Round Boat Ride

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Riding a Water Buffalo

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Again

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China Beach outside Da Nang

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Da Nang

On March 5th we headed out via bus to Hue. Along the way we stopped at a quite impressive marble factory. Again, OSHA would be closing this place down. The marble workers wore no safety goggles, and you could just walk up to them chipping away at marble with pieces flying everywhere. We arrived in Hue, checked into our hotel, and then left for a tour of the Citadel and Imperial City which is inside the Citadel walls. The structures here suffered severe damage during the Tet Offensive and are in the process of being restored. The Citadel is another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  After that we returned to our hotel for a quick clean up before a Cyclo Tour from the hotel through the streets of Hue, including the night market, ending up at the Y Thao family home. We had dinner at the restaurant attached to the home. It was a delicious six course meal of wonderfully decorated food.

SCENES ON THE ROAD TO HUE (Below)

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PICTURES OF THE CITADEL & IMPERIAL CITY IN HUE (Below)

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Hue Market Pictures (Below)

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The following day we hired a guide to take us to the countryside. It was a nice change from the noise and hustle of the city. We went to a very small village along the river where we walked through the market and eventually made our way to a magnificent covered bridge. We then went to the museum where we were entertained and enlightened by a 78-year-old village woman who showed us how the rice was harvested and separated. We also visited several pagodas and the Khai Dinh Tomb. This tomb is the resting place of the last of the Nguyen Dynasty. This emperor was not liked by the Vietnamese due to his collaboration with the French government. We also passed through a most colorful village where they make incense. The streets were lined with stalls filled with incense sticks of all colors.

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Hue – The Perfume River

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Perfume River

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Washing Clothes in River

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Village Market

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Typical Village Home

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Covered Wooden Tiled Bridge

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Buddhist Monastery

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Again

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Again

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And Again

On March 7th we flew to Hanoi and then boarded a bus for the ride to Halong Bay. It was a long ride but we enjoyed the small villages and countryside we traveled through. We enjoyed a group dinner at the hotel after a long day of travel.

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Road to Halong Bay

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Again

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Ferry Port – Halong Bay

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Kitchen on Junk Boat Cruise

On March 8th we headed out to Halong Bay which is another World Heritage Site. Unfortunately, it was cloudy and misty, but nonetheless we boarded a junk boat for a five hour tour of this amazing site. It is filled with towering limestone formations that host tropical rain forests. We also climbed up to the Thien Cung Cave. Lunch was served on board the boat. The food was delicious and included a fish dish and beef dish. Of course, one cannot forget the ubiquitous spring rolls that were also served. Amazing dishes prepared in a cramped kitchen on board. One member of our group brought on bottles of champagne to celebrate his wife’s birthday. It was a wonderful ending to another wonderful day of exploration.

PICTURES OF HALONG BAY (Below)

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We then drove to Hanoi and checked into our hotel. Mianne, Nancy, Joe and I met for a drink downstairs after settling in. We then ventured out into the night to find a place to eat. After making our way across several hazardous streets we found a wonderful place for dinner. We sat in a beautiful courtyard and felt far removed from the noisy traffic outside. Nancy was in heaven because they made a fairly decedent Manhattan! There was no way this restaurant would get a bad review! The meal was just delicious as well. It’s amazing how little money we spent for all of our dinners out. This particular night, we had drinks and meals and ended up paying around $9 US per person. We were just amazed every time we ate out and got the bill – delicious food and drinks cheap.

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Driving into Hanoi

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Driving into Hanoi

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Driving into Hanoi

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View from Hotel Window (Hanoi)

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Hanoi Street Life

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A Hospital (Scary!)

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Again (Glad I Wasn’t Sick)

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Ho Chi Minh Tomb – Guard Changing

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National Assembly

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Hanoi Street Life

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Hanoi Street Life

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Hanoi Street Life

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Hanoi Street Life

On March 10 we did a tour of the Museum of Ethnology. It is considered the most modern museum in Vietnam. (No pictures allowed!)  It’s a very busy place with many interesting exhibits regarding the history and the numerous cultures that make up Vietnam. We had lunch across the street from the Hoan Kiem Lake which is located in the historical section of Hanoi. It is very scenic and obviously is a spot where locals tend to congregate. That afternoon we were entertained at a water puppet show. There are many theaters around Hanoi that offer these shows, and they are wildly popular and very entertaining. We had dinner with several other members of the group at the same restaurant as the previous evening.

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Hoan Kiem Lake

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Hanoi at Night

Buddhist Temple Near Hotel (Below)

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March 11th was the last day of our trip. We again decided to do a tour of the countryside. We hired a van and driver and headed out to a village where large scale furniture is made. There was little evidence of large tools being used other than small electric sanders – almost everything was hand carved and hand sanded. We then were taken to Bat Trang Ceramic Village. The ceramics were all handmade, dipped and painted at the ceramic factory. The kilns were enormous. On the way back to Hanoi we stopped at St. Joseph’s Cathedral, a beautiful catholic church near the lake.

Bat Trang Ceramic Village (Below)

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Hanoi from Top Floor of Hotel (Below)

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St Joseph’s Cathedral – Hanoi

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Some of the Crew

Then we returned to our hotel to pack our bags. The group later walked to a wonderful little restaurant for a farewell dinner. The food, again, was delicious and interesting. My favorite items were grilled eggplant with oil and shallot and shredded papaya salad with dried beef. Toasts were made and goodbyes were said; a perfect ending to a wonderful whirlwind trip through Vietnam.

GOODNIGHT AND GOODBYE VIETNAM!!!

We Are Home

Dinner Saturday night at the Blue Moon Fish Company was excellent.  Elaine had scallops.  I had grouper.  I had grouper twice this trip and both times it was excellent.  As an appetizer I had six HUGE Willapa oysters from Washington State.  Very sweet.  I wanted Blue Points from Connecticut, but they were out of them.

Sunday Morning Cribbage Update:  Lino, on a high based on her first win on Saturday, was ready to kick ass.  Alas, she got skunked!  For those cribbage aficionados, twice I held a 4-5-5-6, and both times a 6 was cut.

The weather on Sunday was much improved.  We had a session at the Village Pump with some appetizers.  Dinner was pre-made sandwiches from Publix with chips and beverage of choice as we watched the Patriots’ special teams get embarrassed by the Eagles in Foxboro.  The Pats should pay us not to go to Florida and watch games at the Beachside Village Resort.  They are now 0-3 in games that we watched there.

Sunday morning we were up at four dark thirty for our drive to the airport and our 7 am flight home on American.  The flight was uneventful, we arrived thirty minutes early, and our driver was waiting.  We were home by 10:45 am.

Next scheduled trip:  UK and Ireland in May and then maybe Depoe Bay, Oregon and Crater Lake in September.  Meanwhile, Elaine has a trip to Viet Nam in the works with our friend Mianne for late in February, and perhaps I’ll post some pics from that trip after she returns in early March.

Catch Up Time

THURSDAY

Cribbage:  Joe wins again.  Ho hum.

Sultry weather.  Humid with off and on showers.  The boys did an afternoon session at the Village Pump.  Nothing much exciting.  I have a bad head cold, and today was my low point day.  At night everyone (except me) went out to the Ambry for German food. Elaine and I hjave been going there for over thirty years.  I missed it as I hit the sack early with a bottle of NyQuil.

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A Pump Session

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Sunrise

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Again

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Lino on the Hopper Bus

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German Food at the Ambry

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More

FRIDAY

Cribbage:  Joe wins close game!

Weather = RAIN.  Steady and heavy.  Record rainfall for the area.  Since the BVR has a cocktail party with food on Friday nights, we decided on a nice lunch.  Everyone met up at Shooters on the Intercoastal, not far from the hotel.  Very good food.  I had an excellent cheeseburger, and the cape codders were delicious.  The cocktail party was not a roaring success like last Friday:  less people, less food, but plenty of alcohol.

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Sue and Larry Awaiting Happy Hour

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John, Paula, and Willsey

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The Blue Light Tree by the Pool

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Elaine and John

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The Bar at Happy Hour with Matt the Bartender

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The Christmas Tree at the BVR Office

SATURDAY

Cribbage:  Lino breaks out with her first win; whining ceases temporarily.  Last game tomorrow.

Sue and Larry left this morning for their ride home to Estero on the other Florida coast.  The rest of us ventured to Gulfstream Park for the opening day of their championship meet.  The girls hit all the shops – there are lots!  Lino won money on a slot machine in the casino.  I was shutout at Gulfstream but managed to hit a race at Aqueduct and one at Tampa, so it wasn’t a total disaster.  We got free Gulfstream pens and calendars which we plan on giving to the hotel staff.

Saturday dinner will be in a little while at the Blue Moon Fish Company.  A report on that tomorrow, our last full day in LBTS.  We fly home at dawn on Monday.

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The Pegasus Statue at Gulfstream Park