Cap-Aux-Meules, Quebec

Sunday

First off, here’s a map of our cruise route except there is one correction – our cruise stopped in Halifax, not in Lunenburg:

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So today we are supposed to be anchored at Cap-Aux-Meules Island in L’Îles de la Madelaine, Quebec. Alas, it was not meant to be. We awoke to still fairly smooth seas but 25-35 knot winds and icy snow. Not good for anchoring. Definitely not good for tendering. So, port call cancelled. Today we will be comfortable at sea instead of freezing on a tour that was supposed to include a stop at a lighthouse, an oyster farm (with free samples), and a winery (again with free samples). Le Barbocheux Artisanal winery would have been interesting. It’s bagosse variety is often called the beer of the Islands, but it is really a traditional home-brewed wine.

This is what it looks like at our suite garden area, shared with three other explorer suites (click to enlarge to really see the snow):

So we spent the day on board eating, drinking, napping, reading, and watching the weather. The outside decks are closed because of the weather, but it’s comfy inside and the seas are not rough at all. I will finish my book today and start a new one. Here’s where we spent much of the day:

Someone asked in a comment how far out to see we cruised between ports. I can’t answer exactly, but we are far enough out to be in international waters and far enough out so that there is normally no land in sight. International waters is important for cruise ships selling booze and gifts on board. It’s also important on most ships for on-board casinos, but Viking has no casinos. When in Canada on the St. Lawrence River, a cruise ship is only allowed to have one bar open on each deck. That’s not a big deal for a small ship like Viking (with just 378 passengers).

We had burgers and fries for lunch at The Grill in the World Cafe. Dinner tonight was also in the World Cafe.

Back again tomorrow which will be a planned sea/river day as we enter the St. Lawrence River and head toward Quebec City.

Cape Breton, Nova Scotia

Saturday

My sister made the 2,000.th comment! Thank you all for your comments and your interest in the blog. We anchored early this morning at Cape Breton Island in northern Nova Scotia. Once again, we are the first cruise ship of the season and the locals are happy to see us as we are a a sign that summer is coming. But it certainly isn’t summer today. It’s cold. 32º predicted high. And there is a scattering of snow on the ground. At least it’s dry. Mostly cloudy was the odd trace of sun.

Most of the excursions from the ship are to the Fortress of Louisbourg. That’s as it should be since it is a major attraction. But Elaine and I have done that. Yes, it was back in like 1985 when we took our first ever vacation together to Nova Scotia via the overnight ferry from Portland to Halifax. We spent 10 days driving around and visited Cape Breton Island and the Fortress of Louisbourg. It was impressive, but I suspect it hasn’t changed much. So instead we did the excursion to Historic Sydney. The guide, a local and former school teacher, was wonderful with a great sense of humor.

Click on the galleries below to bring up scrollable windows with full size pictures – the gallery previews may show just thumbnails of the pictures. By the way, the pictures look much better on a tablet or a computer than they do on your phone. Just saying.

Our bus journeyed around the Sydney area and made two stops. First stop was at a delightful little museum, the Whitney Pier Historical Museum. It’s off season, so the museum isn’t open yet, but they opened just for us! Basically, it’s just two floors of artifacts donated by residents from their lives on Cape Breton Island. There are a bunch of volunteer docents who were incredibly knowledgeable and friendly. And there were (free) delicious home-baked Scottish oak biscuits. As you can see from the photos, they are proud of their multi-culturalism.

Another short drive and we were at the very small Historic Fort Petrie Military Museum. It too opened just for us, and the curator was welcoming and wonderful. We had a nice time chatting with him.

Then it was back to the ship. It cleared up a bit and I got a few pictures of the lighthouse and the area near where we were anchored. The lighthouse is the second oldest in North America. The oldest is on Brewster Island in Boston.

Dinner was in the Restaurant. We both had Indian Tomato Soup (very good!). I had Dover Sole. I forget what Elaine’s main was. She had cheeses for dessert while I had Chocolate Decadence. The sun came out brightly before dinner and I got some nice pictures as we set sail for Cap-Aux-Meules, Quebec.

Halifax, Nova Scotia

Friday

So yesterday we’re checking the weather in Halifax and find out it’s snowing. Not a good sign. We arrived at 7:00 am. It was cloudy but dry and the inch or so of snow they got had melted. By the time we got off the ship, it remained mostly cloudy, but there was a fair amount of sun as well. It was nice in the sun. The temperature only got up to about 52º. We are docked right near the center of town, but our balcony looks out the other direction and we see this ligthhouse. Quiz question: What residents of Halifax known as? Halifaxers? Halifaxians? Or something else? Answer below somewhere.

After breakfast we donned warm clothing and our special expedition-ship life vests for an hour foray on one of the two “special operations boats” on board. It’s hard to describe the whole experience, but here a uTube video of one of the boats on the Viking Octanis, Viking’s first expedition ship. Polaris, our ship, is the second.

Click on the galleries below to bring up scrollable windows with full size pictures – the gallery previews may show just thumbnails of the pictures. By the way, the pictures look much better on a tablet or a computer than they do on your phone. Just saying.

It was cold out there, and for wildlife we only saw a lot of ducks and loons and geese, but it was fun. There are a lot of huge expensive homes along the shoreline. The stone tower you see is in Sir Sandford Fleming Park. It is also known as Dingle Park or simply The Dingle, named after the town of Dingle in southwestern Ireland How appropriate! We’ll be in Dingle in just five weeks. Here are my pictures:

After our short ride we reboarded Polaris, dumped our life vests, and headed out on foot. We just stayed along the Halifax Harbourwalk which is very nice, but lots of stuff wasn’t open yet as it is very early in the season. In fact, Polaris is the first cruise ship of the year to dock in Halifax. There was a TV news crew filming about that fact, and I got interviewed. So if you happened to be watching local Halifax news on TV on Friday, you might have seen me. Fact learned on the walk: Samuel Cunard who founded Cunard Lines was from Halifax. So, the quiz answer is that he was a Haligonian. Pictures from along the walk below. See the lighthouse in the gap of the stone statue? That’s Sammy Cunard in the last picture.

We had a great lunch at Sea Smoke, a nice restaurant right on the Harbourwalk. It was nice enough to sit outside where we had our own fire pit. The local beer we had was called Frig Off East Coast IPA by Nine Locks Brewing Company. I had six yummy oysters and then fried calamari and fries. Elaine had fish and chips. Good lunch!

Then it was back to the ship for rest and relaxation prior to the daily happy hour with John and Donna. Tonight it was in the Living Room Bar and we later adjourned to dinner in the World Cafe. At 7 pm we sail for Cape Breton, further north in Nova Scotia, where we will be tomorrow.

Until then! Oh, by the way, the next comment made will be the 2,000th comment on the blog. Who will it be?

Still at Sea

Thursday

Still at sea. Yesterday was sunny and cool. Today was rainy, windy, and cold. But the seas are smooth and we are trucking right along. We waved at Massachusetts today. We couldn’t see it as we’re too far out to sea. By the way, yesterday’s post was the 600th post of this travel blog (not counting our older original travel blog located here which had another 150 or so posts ending in 2013.) Who knew it (or we) would be around this long!

Quiet day. We had a nice lunch in the World Cafe at the grill station – very good cheeseburgers (mine with bacon) and French fries. French rosé wine to drink. We read a bit. And we attended a lecture on North American Predators focusing on wolves, coyotes, and black bears. Some pics including a bad selfie.

Dinner tonight was in Manfredi’s, the Italian specialty restaurant on board. I had pasta e fagioli again (best soup ever!) and seafood stew (with mussels, clams, fish, and a big langoustine). Elaine had mushroom risotto as her main. Wine was a French Cotes du Rhone. Gelato for dessert for me. Elaine’s dessert was better looking, whatever it was – I forget.

Pictures in our cabin including the tv showing the bridge cam.

A picture of our ship during its Antarctica cruise:

Tomorrow we land in Halifax. Back then.

Back at Sea

Wednesday

We’re back at sea en route to Halifax, Nova Scotia where we will arrive on Friday morning. It’s interesting that Viking picked Charleston and Norfolk as the two ports in the USA to visit, bypassing New York, Boston, Portland, Bangor, et. al. Good for us though as we got our first visits ever to Charleston and Norfolk, and we very much enjoyed both. After Elaine moved to Boston back in 1983, Nova Scotia was the first vacation destination for us a couple. We drove to Portland and took the overnight ferry from there to Halifax and spent a 10 days driving around the island. We’ve been back to Halifax at least twice (maybe three times) on trans-Atlantic cruises on Oceania and Princess. But anyway, we’ll be at sea today and tomorrow.

We attended two presentations today. The first was about bird watching and reporting your finds to an app called eBird. Birders we are not, but it was interesting nonetheless. The second was a film called “Secrets of the Civil War” from the National Geographic Society. Remember learning about the Monitor and the Merrimac.in school? The Monitor was featured in this presentation. The basis of the films, one of a series, is about technology that lets one drain the oceans to see the state of the wrecks and provide theories about exactly what happened. The land battles of the American Civil War are well known, but it’s the war on the seas that shaped the outcome of the war. Maritime archaeologists and historians go in search of Civil War secrets, hidden deep underwater. Scientific data combines with computer graphics to drain the oceans to investigate the lost wrecks of the war. You can see the same series on Disney+, Hulu, and, I think, uTube. It’s very interesting. (On uTube here.)

Lunch was in the World Cafe. I had Chinese pepper steaks while Elaine had delicious calamari fritters. We both had beer.

Dinner tonight was in the Restaurant.

Random Pictures:

I found the picture of the Pig served in the World Cafe buffet. It was on my phone.

Better pictures of the sunset the other night. They were also on my phone.

Random shots of artwork around the ship: The first two are in our cabin.

Random shots from dinner last night:

Back tomorrow for another sea day. Cheers!

Norfolk, VA

Tuesday

We are the girls from Norfolk
We Don’t Drink
Nor Smoke
Nor . . . .
OK, use your imagination. Our old friend Ed Wrenn (RIP) used to live here and often sang those words.

Cloudy morning, but quickly cleared to a beautiful sunny day. Temperature was 81 yesterday here, 62 today. Great day for walking about. So we did. We were booked for an afternoon “Panoramic Norfolk” bus tour, but we skipped it. We headed out on foot at about 8:15 am after breakfast and didn’t get back to the ship until after 3:00.

Views from the World Cafe while eating breakfast:

Our ship is docked right in downtown Norfolk. And it is right next to the USS Wisconsin, a Navy battleship that is now part of the Nauticus Museum Complex.

The museum and battleship didn’t open until 10:00 am, so we walked a bit and stopped in a Starbucks for a hot chocolate for me and a chai latte for Elaine. Then we walked to the MacArthur Monument and Museum. Yes, Douglas MacArthur is big news here and is buried at the Monument with his wife (second one). The museum and monument are very interesting and we spent a couple of hours poking about. Lots of pictures. Fascinating place!

Then we headed back to the Battleship Wisconsin. We stopped twice. First to walk through a somewhat boring market area (Selden Market) that is undergoing a rebirth. In that market there was a delightful exhibit of children’s artwork that was quite remarkably good as seen in the following pictures. (Hey Dee, the first picture is of a hat designed by kids that would be perfect for you for the Derby!)

Then we stopped at the Stockpot for lunch in the Selden Market. Great spot! I had spicy Vindaloo soup and a turkey on pita with chipotle. Elaine had the “best falafel I ever had”. Suitably nourished, we made it to the Nauticus Museum, a maritime museum with lots of interactive exhibits, and to the attached Battleship Wisconsin. Great view of Viking Polaris from the deck of the Wisconsin.

Some random views of Norfolk. Norfolk is home to the world’s largest naval base (no pictures). It is also the city of mermaids. The building in the last picture below is the Public Library.

Cocktail hour drinks tonight were in the Aquavit Lounge, aft on the ship near the small indoor/outdoor pool – warm water indoor (Tepidarium) and cold water outdoor (Frigidarium). As we drank, we set sail for two sea days before landing again in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Great sunset. Dinner was in the World Cafe Grill where I had swordfish and Elaine had shrimp skewers. After dinner drinks back in the Explorer’s Lounge. I went to bed when the discussion turned political. Pictures include some views of the Naval Base as we sailed by.

Be back tomorrow with a much more boring but highly enjoyable sea day (first of two).

At Sea Again

Monday

First off, I added a couple of pictures and some commentary to the end of yesterday’s post. You can scroll down and read (if you want).

Monday is a day at sea en route to Norfolk, Virginia, our next stop. There won’t be anything exciting to report other than drinks, food, and maybe some ship pictures.

I didn’t like the book I was reading – Fake History – so i reshelved it and am now reading: Slow Trains Around Spain. I love reading travel books. By the way, the first of the ten great lies from Fake History was how Churchill, in addition to being a wartime hero, was also a bigoted jerk. The story was good, but I hated the author’s style.

Lunch in the World Cafe. Here’s a look at some of the stations in the Cafe. There is (unpictured) also a sushi station and a Grill station for steaks and lobster. I had carvings of dark meat off a big turkey. And (amazingly) just Coke Zero to drink. Yesterday we watched them putting a huge whole pig in the oven at breakfast. By lunch the pig’s head was staring out at as where the turkey was today.

We read for awhile in one of the lounges. Some people just slept. This is NOT us.

Cocktails in the Living Room. Dinner in Manfredi’s

That’s not the exact menu we had, but it’s close. Pasta e Fagioli for me followed by that Bistecca Florentina on the menu and gelato for dessert. Elaine had the calamari and a delicious pork chop. The wine from Burgandy was wonderful.

Then it was to the Explorer’s Lounge for after dinner drinks, music, and camaraderie. And, finally, bed. We’re glad it was a sea day because it rained, heavily at times, all day. There were tornado warnings in SC and NC, but we saw no sign of any as we passed by. The forecast for Norfolk tomorrow looks good. It was 81º there today but only 63º predicted tomorrow under sunny skies.

Charleston, South Carolina

Sunday

A little bumpy during the night, but we sailed safely into Charleston, SC at about 7 am Sunday morning. It rained a bit during the night, but the weather was promising at least as the sun was visible when we got up. It turned out to be a very nice day with temperatures in the mid 70’s. We had breakfast in the World Cafe and then headed ashore for our tour of Charleston. It’s the first time either of us has been here.

The history of Charleston, South Carolina, is one of the longest and most diverse of any community in the United States, spanning hundreds of years of physical settlement beginning in 1670. Charleston was one of leading cities in the South from the colonial era to the Civil War in the 1860s. The city grew wealthy through the export of rice and, later, sea island cotton and it was the base for many wealthy merchants and landowners. Charleston was the capital of American slavery. Sea island cotton still exits but is no longer in commercial production.

Charleston, located on a peninsula into the Atlantic, was originally Charlestown and was a walled city. The name was changed to Charleston in 1783. Why? No one seems to know. Some people have advanced the hypothesis that the spelling was altered to conform to the customary local pronunciation. The “w” in “town” was practically silent in the local dialect, and the act of incorporation provided a convenient opportunity to change the spelling officially to reflect the local pronunciation. Thus “CharlesTOWN” became “CHARLESton,” or perhaps even “CHAHLston.” Good enough for me.

We bussed downtown and did a walking tour with a delightful guide (pictured below with Elaine) Who has heard of Henroy Timrod?. Maybe we’ll go back for the time capsule opening in 2061.

A little history lesson:

There are lots of delightful houses in Charleston. They are seemingly built sideways and are either singles or doubles. Why? And porches are called piazzas. That brought back memories because when we lived in Chelsea, MA back in 1946-1951 (I was nine when we moved to Melrose), we called the porch the piazza. (And we ate supper at night, not dinner – dinner was a Sunday or holiday thing and served earlier). See Elaine in the gallery below?

See the Spanish Moss in the trees below? It’s everywhere. And it’s not Spanish and it’s not moss. What is it then? See here.

The highlight of the walking tour was a visit to the Heyward-Washington House. Yes, George slept here for a week. We walked up the stairs inside holding the same bannister that George Washington used back in 1791. The owner, Thomas Heyward, was a signer of the Declaration on Independence.

And we stopped to see the Charleston Hat Man. How many hats can you find in his picture? Note that one ear is a confederate soldier cap and the other a Union soldier cap.

After our walking tour, we were back to the bus for a drive other parts of Charleston including the beautiful campus of the College of Charleston. It’s tough taking pictures while riding a bus, so I took only one. It’s the back of the Joseph Manigualt House. Why the bricked up windows? I don’t know. In the UK many ears ago windows were bricked up to avoid paying the window tax, but that doesn’t seem to have been a reason in SC. By the way, the house looks better from the front, but we drove by the back.

And finally it was back to the ship in time for reading and naps before happy hour and dinner. Dinner was in the World Cafe and was good as always. No pictures and no details. You’ve read enough for today. See you tomorrow, a sea day on the way to Norfolk, VA.

And, oh, by the way – we had our first Viking passenger casualty today. A woman from our tour fell, hit her head, and was eventually carted off in an ambulance. Word is that she is OK and hopefully will be back on board when we sail at 6 PM. Casualties seemed to be an everyday occurance on our Viking sail from Vancouver through Alaska to Japan last year.

Oops, another oh by the way. I was sitting on our balcony with binoculars in hand and noticed an island (or more like a sandbar) with the French flag flying. Turns out that it’s Castle Pinckney, a small masonry fortification constructed by the United States government in 1810. It was used very briefly as a prisoner-of-war camp (six weeks) and artillery position during the American Civil War. Why the French flag? See here.

OK, one last OBTW. Also looking out from our balcony while docked in Charleston, you can see off in the distance what looked like an aircraft carrier. Turns out it the USS Yorktown, a US Navy aircraft carrier that served in WWII, in the Korean War, and in Vietnam as well being used to pluck returning Apollo 8 astronauts out of the ocean.

Sea Day

Saturday

Great night’s sleep. Woke up a couple of times and felt the choppy Atlantic. It’s already been more oceany (is that a word?) than our previous two ocean trips that were like being on lakes. Breakfast in the World Cafe (which is phenominal) was grand (as usual). No food pictures this morning. After breakfast we read for a bit in one of the lounges and then did a walking tour of the ship. The Hide is a great speakeasy type bar that only serves drinks from 9 pm onwards. It’s a great place to sit, read, and hide all day. We also walked by the Restaurant (where we will eat tonight) and Manfredi’s, the Italian restuarant with great steaks (where we will eat three other nights). We also watched part of a kayak briefing in the Aula, the ship’s beautiful theater/auditorium/lecture hall. We didn’t need to stay for it because we won’t be kayaking. We will be doing one Zodiak tour and one Special Operations Boat tour – more about those when they happen.

There are library areas located all around the ship, but we have our own library in the suite. Some great books. I am now reading Fake History by Otto English. Here’s the library (with the television screen in the middle tuned to the live bow camera).

Weather is still nice and we sat on our balcony for awhile. As an expediation ship, the Polaris in general doesn’t have outdoor balconies in its staterooms. Instead, they have Nordic balconies. There is a floor-to-ceiling picture window that open downwards from the top to the halfway point, thereby creating an indoor “Nordic” balcony. The four Explorer Suites (and the single Owner’s Suite) have that but also have outdoor balconies. The pictures below show our Nordic picture window and our small balcony. (The wet look is not from rain – they just passed by with a hose washing things down.)

We met John and Donna at lunch in the World Cafe and then again at Happy Hour (5:00 pm) in the Living Room lounge. The bartender there is also named John, and he makes the best vodka gimlet (Grey Goose, of course). Nice music.

DInner tonight was in The Restaurant (reservations-required). My lobster and scallops highlighted the meal. Wine was excellent.

After dinner drinks were in the Explorer’s Lounge. And then off to bed.

On Board the Viking Polaris

THURSDAY NIGHT

Had dinner again at the hotel and listened to some cool music. We chatted a bit with the musician since it wasn’t crowded at all.

FRIDAY

Had breakfast, repacked, and checked out. Drove to Port Everglades in Fort Lauderdale and turned our car into Budget. There were a slew of people with tons of luggage waiting for the shuttle bus, so we grabbed a cab with another couple and shuttled to the ship that way. Checked the bags in with the ship porters. Then we had to wait about 90 minutes to board as the Coast Guard and the Health Authorities had not completed their inpection of the ship. (Staff reductions and budget cuts!) There were five cruise ships in port today.

Finally boarded and immediately accessed our Explorer Suite. We got upgraded from the junior suite we had booked to the Explorer Suite. Wow, is it nice.

Then it was time to explore, eat lunch, meet up with John and Donna from our last cruise, nap, unpack, and get ready for drinks and dinner. More about all that tomorrow (Saturday) when we we will be at sea headed to Charleston, South Carolina. We sailed at 8:00 pm. Before that we watched three other way bigger ships depart: Celebrity Beyond, Holland America Rotterdam, and Celebrity Something-or-Other. (Our ship is 390 pasengers.)

Very tired after dinner and drinks. Food is grand! More tomorrow.